Discover Hvar, Korčula, and Dubrovnik through local food traditions, family-run wineries, and cultural treasures along the Adriatic
The rocky coastline, historic towns, and crystal-clear waters of the Dalmatian Coast have the allure of Italy’s Amalfi Coast, with over 1,000 islands and islets. Chief among these are Hvar Island, Korčula, and Dubrovnik. A ferry conveniently connects the islands, anchoring them between Split and Dubrovnik, like pearls in a necklace.
Dalmatia is one of Croatia’s four wine regions. Here, the vines must dig deep, concentrating flavours and adding minerality. Vines also cling to cliffs, maximizing sun exposure and drainage.
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Winemakers cultivate Indigenous grapes such as the white grape Pošip and the red Plavac Mali. The Coast is also known for quality olive oil. As a local saying goes, “A fish in Dalmatia swims three times: once in the sea, then in olive oil, and finally in white wine.”
Hvar Island makes a good base for a trip to Dalmatia. It’s Croatia’s sunniest island and boasts six UNESCO tangible and intangible cultural heritages. On Hvar, you can bathe at rocky beaches or climb down a ladder to take a dunk.
The following itinerary would take three to four days. Take your time, as there are many things to see and do:
Hvar Island
Dining option
Konoba Luviji’s rooftop patio offers panoramic views of the terra-cotta-tiled roofs below and the leafy hillside surrounding the town. Durda Bracanović, whose family owns the restaurant, serves dishes with ingredients her family grows or catches themselves. “The food that we eat at home, the recipes from our grandmothers and mothers, is something that we want to present to our guests,” said Durda.
One of the signature dishes is gregada, a hearty fish stew made with shrimp, whitefish, clams, sea bass, and red snapper layered with thinly sliced potatoes, onions, and garlic. The stew is then gently simmered in olive oil and white wine. I sopped up the thick aromatic sauce with fresh bread so as not to miss a drop.
Where to drink
Luviji Winery
The family-run Luviji Winery, also owners of Konoba Luviji, produces wine from indigenous Croatian grape varieties, Pošip, Plavac Mali, Maraština, and Zlatarica. My partner and I had the privilege of sampling the wines with our dinner. Our favourites were the 2024 Longo and 2021 Divjok.
Luviji is a family-run winery in Hvar.
The Longo 2024 is a white field blend, made from four indigenous varieties: Zlatarica, Marastina, Tribjan, and Kurtelaska. These grapes have been grown in Hvar for generations. The wine is perfect for summer. The 2021 Divjok is a red wine made from Plavac Mali grapes. The Mediterranean-style red was medium-bodied with black cherry and plum flavours, and a balanced finish.
Duboković Winery
The Duboković Winery tasting room doubles as a cellar, with 3-arm candelabras illuminating high-top tasting tables. Stacked wooden barrels line the walls. Our guide, Stjepan Mijat Zaninović, took us through a tasting of 6 wines.
Duboković pioneered the white macerated (orange) winemaking on the island, but is best known for his red wines, Medvid and Medvjedica, both made with Plavac Mali. The 2018 Medvid was bold and dry, with a taste of dark cherries and cloves. The 2018 Medvjedica was dry with medium tannins, and black cherry, dark berries, and a hint of chocolate on the palate.
Where to stay
If you’re willing to splurge for luxury in the centre of Hvar Town, check out the Palace Elizabeth Hvar Hotel. This hotel was named in honour of Empress Elisabeth of Austria, also known as ‘Sisi’.
Palace Elisabeth Hotel.
Korčula
Dining option
Adio Mare
Konoba Adio Mare is located in the Old Town, across from a museum dedicated to explorer Marco Polo, who locals believe was born in Korčula. I ordered pašticada. The marinated beef is cooked in a rich sauce of red wine, sweet wine, root vegetables, dried fruit, herbs, and spices. The meat was so tender that it fell apart as I tasted a combination of sweet, sour, and savoury flavours.
Where to drink
Sambulum Winery
The affable owner of Sambulum Winery, Ivan Bačić, guided us through a tasting, as Dexter the dog calmly looked on. We tried the 2024 Grk, a light yellow colour that was off-dry with aromas of citrus and herbs, tasting crisp, dry, and fruity. The 2022 Plavic Mali was deep purple, with high tannins and acidity, tasting of plum, cherry, and oak.
Sambulum Winery.
Where to Stay
Apartments Sunny Town
Apartments Sunny Town couldn’t be better located in the heart of Korčula, near the ferry dock. A good selection of restaurants is right outside the door.
Dubrovnik
Dining option
Trattoria Carmen
Trattoria Carmen.
Trattoria Carmen is located in the center of Dubrovnik’s historic Old City, tucked away on a quiet street. Chef Damir Raguž prepares traditional Dalmatian recipes, complemented by beloved Italian classics. I ordered the dirty macaroni, known locally as šporki makaruli. The name ‘dirty’ describes the appearance of the pasta, coated with the rich meat sauce. The dish was savory with a hint of sweetness.
Where to Drink
Soak up the sunset at Buža I, a bar clinging to cliffs, visible from the city walls. Buža means ‘hole’ in the Dubrovnik dialect, referring to the hidden entrance. You can sit at a tiny table or directly on the rocks. Swimming in the inviting Adriatic is also an option.
Where to stay
Dubrovnik Gardens
Centrally located, Dubrovnik Gardens is a quiet reprieve from the crowded Old Town. Like many other places in Dubrovnik, you’ll get your steps in climbing up the stairs.
Dalmatian Coast Wine, Food, and Cultural Events
Hvar Wine Festival
The Hvar Wine Festival is an annual celebration of Croatian winemaking, with wine tasting and workshops. Participants can enjoy curated food and wine experiences that highlight the island’s culinary heritage. The 7th annual Festival takes place on April 28, 2026.
Hvar Wine Festival.
St. Prosperus Fest
St. Prosperous Fest honours St. Prosper, the co-patron saint of the town of Hvar. The event features cultural performances, food, and wine. In 2026, the Festival will take place on May 10.
Pro Tips
1. The ferry system on the Dalmatian Coast is well-maintained and efficient.
2. Take in a Klapa performance. This traditional a cappella singing style, recognized by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage, features harmonized vocals performed by small groups.
3. Don’t miss a performance of the Moreška Sword Dance on Korčula. Each dancer brandishes two swords in seven choreographed sword duels.
Merle Rosenstein is a freelance travel, wine, and food writer from Toronto, Canada, with Level 2 Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET) certification. Merle has written for Wander With Wonder, Quench Magazine, and Modern Traveller. She has toured wineries across Chile, sipped wine in Spain, and interviewed winemakers in Tuscany.
