A summary of key events from this year’s International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration
Scheduled over four summer days in the heart of Ontario’s wine country, the 2024 edition of the International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration (dubbed i4C by the trade) took place between July 18-21.
The event kicked off on a Thursday morning with the ‘School of Cool’ and an informative, and highly engaging, keynote address by Stefan Neuman, MS. Neuman is a London based Master Sommelier and educator for the Court of Master Sommelier Europe. Speaking to the evolving landscape of chardonnay and to the diversity of cool climate chardonnay styles, he highlighted the grape’s adaptability and global appeal, setting the stage for an exploration of chardonnay’s many facets.
In closing, Neuman urged anyone working in the wine trade, be it writers and/or sommeliers, to be ambassadors, and to help educate consumers and buyers about cool climate chardonnay.
“The world of wine needs to learn more about Canadian wine, and in particular hear about its cool climate chardonnay.” – Stefan Neuman, MS
Thursday: The School of Cool Educational Sessions & Walk-Around Tasting
The i4C School of Cool.
Session 1: The only constant is change
Moderated by Anthony Hamilton Russell, of Hamilton Russell Vineyards in South Africa, the session dove straight into addressing the accelerated pace of climate change. Eight national and international panelists shared their wines, as well as their first-hand accounts of various weather extremes and their impacts. From polar vortexes, unpredictable precipitation swings and frosts, early budbreak and unexpected weather variations, we heard about the importance of adaptability, and of focusing on what each season is presenting versus a one-size-fits-all approach.
Read about last year’s event: i4C Niagara: There’s no cooler way to learn about chardonnay
In the words of Anthony Hamilton Russell, “Adapting to climate chaos versus climate change becomes key as winemakers increasingly face changes that are anything but linear.” Focusing on chardonnay, we examined its unique resilience and vulnerabilities, how change acceleration is shaping wine styles and discussed the innovative approaches that winemakers are taking to look ahead and to adapt.
“I love cool climate chardonnay for its nervous intensity and complexity without ponderous weight.” – Anthony Hamilton Russell
Session 2: Bubbles on the rise
Moderated by Peter Rod, a restaurant management and sommelerie veteran, session two was all about sparkling wine, which continues to be an increasingly important market segment locally and globally. Leading us through a blind tasting of eight different expressions of sparkling wine, Peter had us try to detect which wines were not 100% chardonnay, which wines were not from Ontario, and which wines had spent longer aging ‘sur lattes’.
Panelists discussed how chardonnay adapts to different climates, terroirs and techniques as well as the unique challenges and complexities of making sparkling wines.
“Sparkling wine is one of the most technical wines to make.” – Rene Van Ede, winemaker at Foreign Affair Winery
Session 3: Chardonnay unbound
Leading us through a blind tasting of eight wines of varied styles, expressions and nuances, Stefan Neumann, MS, was both a moderator and DJ serving up wines paired with unique musical ‘clues’ to their origins. Tasting through expressions of chardonnay that ran the gamut from crisp and mineral-driven to opulent and buttery, the panelists discussed terroir, winemaking techniques and vineyard choices. It was a unique exploration of the intricacies of chardonnay and its various profiles and characteristics.
“Not all superheroes wear capes.” – Stefan Neumann, MS (speaking of Thomas Bachelder, whom Suzanne Janke, i4C Board of Director, described as ‘the original i4C bon vivant’ after pairing Canadian band Nickelback’s song ‘Rockstar’ with his 2021 Bachelder Wines Frontier Block Chardonnay, Lincoln Lakeshore)
Friday Night Flights: An evening of exploration
As the sun started to set at Cherry Lane Farm, a 400-acre cherry, peach, and pear farm in Niagara’s Vineland, Friday Night Flights, featured local and international producers pouring a selection of cool climate chardonnays from Ontario and around the world.
Food selections from Niagara chefs Tim MacKiddie of Smoke & Barrel Niagara, Steve and Jacquelene Del Col from Zooma Caters, Moksha Indian Bistro and Kyle and Brianna Campbell of La Casetta & 270 Bench Kitchen, as well as craft beer samples after 9pm completed the evening at what is highly regarded as summer’s coolest chardonnay party.
Saturday: ‘Chardonnay Rendezvous: Lunch in the Vineyard’ at Peller Estates Winery and ‘Chardonnay in the Vineyard World Tour Tasting & Dinner’ at Riverbend Inn
The ‘Chardonnay Rendezvous: Lunch in the Vineyard’ invited guests to enjoy a tour and culinary experience that included wine tastings and food pairings amidst the chardonnay vines with winemaker Katie Dickieson, followed by an al fresco lunch on the estate terrace featuring a menu designed by Executive Chef Jason Parsons and his culinary team to complement the selection of estate chardonnay, as well as those from visiting wineries: Deux Roches in France, and Hamilton Russell Vineyard in South Africa.
Lounging at the Riverbend Inn during the ‘Chardonnay in the Vineyard’ event at i4C. (Photo, and above main title photo, taken by: Alina Zherdeva)
A unique experience with insights from three winemaking teams and wineries. The Lobster & Scallop Ceviche with preserved lemon, pickled cucumber, red chili and yellow tomato ponzu dressing enjoyed in the vineyard with Deux-Roches Saint-Veran Rives de Longsault Vieilles Vignes 2022 was a highlight, as was the Mushroom Crusted Pork Loin served with smoked wild mushrooms, horseradish broccolini and parmesan orzo risotto served with two wines: Hamilton Russell Vineyards Chardonnay 2023 and Andrew Peller Signature Series Chardonnay Sur Lie 2021.
Later in the evening and hosted at one of Niagara-on-the-Lake’s most iconic inns, the Riverbend Inn, i4C’s signature event, the ‘Chardonnay in the Vineyard World Tour Tasting & Dinner’ offered an outdoor tasting of i4C 2024’s entire showcase of chardonnays and provided a further opportunity to talk with producers and winemakers.
The dinner at Riverbend Inn is the signature event of the i4C weekend. (Photo taken by: Alina Zherdeva)
Set amidst the Inn’s vineyards and orchards and featuring not only chardonnay but also local cool climate reds (pinot noir, gamay and cabernet franc), a family style dinner followed in the adjoining tent illuminated by a 17-foot tree display and centerpiece provided by Niagara Parks. Highlights included Chef Frank Dodd’s Crispy Salmon and Fogo Island Shrimp Cakes with sauce gribiche and Chef Jason Parsons’ Honey & Chardonnay Glazed Pork Loin with black truffle, chanterelle and yellow tomato sauce vierge.
After dinner, guests moved to the ‘Aprés Chardonnay Bar’ tent for cheese and dessert stations, craft beer by Off the Hop, coffee by 416 Coffee Company, live music by XPRIME, and yes, plenty of dancing.
2024 marked the 14th Anniversary of the International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration. Currently, 66 Ontario wineries are members of the i4C Association and, since 2011, more than 270 wineries have participated from 85 cool climate wine regions and over 1,168 different cool climate chardonnays and sparkling/blanc de blancs have been poured.
– Alana Lapierre is a regional editor for VineRoutes
