Long overshadowed, this foundational white grape is stepping into the spotlight—refined, expressive, and distinctively Catalan
Macabeo is a versatile Spanish white grape primarily grown in regions like Catalunya and Rioja, where it is used in both still and sparkling wines, including Cava.
If you are looking at a map of Spain, in the uppermost northeast corner of the country is the region known as Catalunya. All of the coastline of Catalunya is in contact with the Mediterranean Sea, and its northern border meets Andorra and the Pyrenees mountains which separate Spain from France.
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The geography and topography of this region make it ideal for growing Macabeo – a white grape variety that is versatile and flavourful. Macabeo, also known as Viura and a host of other local names in this region of Spain, is used in blends of still and sparkling wines, and as a single varietal wine.
The Mediterranean climate in Catalunya brings warm, dry summers which means the grapes can fully ripen. That provides good sugar content (which forms alcohol during fermentation) and great acidity. In good years, a mild, wet winter provides plenty of water to replenish the soil moisture. This is important because the limestone, clay and slate soils native to Calaunya have differing water holding properties, so getting the balance just right is critical. The sea also moderates extreme heat – which means the fruit retains its freshness and aromas.
Macabeo is also known as Viura and a host of other local names in Spain.
The influence of the sea is significant – it’s hard to overstate that. No wonder this little gem also grows in the Southwest region of France in Languedoc. While it is not the dominant grape, it is incorporated into sparkling wines there, such as Blanquette de Limoux and Crémant de Limoux, both of which can use up to 30 percent Macabeo in their blend. In Spain, Macabeo is one of nine white grape varieties permitted for use in white Rioja and is presently the most widely planted white grape in Rioja.
The current preference for white wine drinkers who choose Viura is crisp and clean citrus notes of lemon or lime, orchard fruit like green apple and pear, and lighter floral aromas. This modern take on Macabeo is different from the traditional barrel-fermented and wine – especially from Rioja. These wines tend to be a deeper golden colour, and they have more oxidative character and develop a richer flavour profile, which typically includes honey, nutty flavours, vanilla, spice, and a creamy mouthfeel.
Wines made with Macabeo pair very well with just about any grilled seafood, including octopus or prawns, as well as creamy cheeses like young Manchego, Brie or Camembert. Its moderate acidity and light body complement delicate textures without overwhelming them.
Still wines made with Macabeo can have a range of flavours and textures depending on winemaker preference.
On the other hand, sparkling Macabeo – frequently used in Spanish Cava – has crisp acidity and lively bubbles, making it ideal for pairing with fried foods like calamari or tempura vegetables, where the effervescence cuts through heavier food textures. It also enhances salty snacks like Marcona almonds or Jamón Ibérico, highlighting the wine’s refreshing character.
Cava generally is a blend of three grape varieties with Macabeo making up between 40-50 percent of the blend. It is usually the dominant grape in the blend because of its fruitiness and early ripening. Basically, a young, fruity style of wine has Macabeo as the star of the show.
Almost all Cava can be drunk as soon as it is released by the winery. The wine spends only nine months on the lees (this means letting the wine rest on the leftovers from the winemaking process which can actually make it taste creamier and more complex) and is made in the traditional method. This essentially means that there is a crisp acidity, not as acidic as Champagne, and there are no toast or bread notes in the taste.
Cava generally is a blend of three grape varieties with Macabeo making up between 40-50 percent of the blend.
Still wines made with Macabeo can have a range of flavours and textures depending on winemaker preference. The clue to what is in the bottle might just be in the name on the label. If you are looking for a complex, layered style of wine that adds nuttiness and dried fruit notes, then the common names are Rioja Reservas and Gran Reservas. These wines tend to be more age worthy and have a richer body due to oak aging.
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If those terms are missing from the label and it is a white Rioja with Macabeo as the dominant grape, then it’s a lighter and fresher flavour including stone fruits like peach and some flora notes like chamomile, and the wine will have a lighter body.
Especially in the summer months, Macabeo-based wines can be drunk as a refreshing sparkler, a fruity accompaniment to seafoods, salads, and lighter fare. For more rich dishes, the Reservas and Gran Reservas are well suited – bringing balance and intensity.
If you haven’t had a Macabeo-based wine before and just want to dip your toe, so to speak, an accessible price point is Cune Blanco Reserva. At $24 CAD you will have a dry wine that has some barrel age making it more of a traditional style Macabeo wine. There is a layer of spice and aromatics that come from aging in French Oak (not new oak), and that imparts body while retaining freshness from the fruit. This dry wine is 13.5% alcohol.
Similarly, a good mid-range price point for a single varietal is Marquesa Valserrano Blanco. It is around $25 CAD and is a modern take on Macabeo. Released in May after the harvest, it is a fruit and honey profile wine at about 13.5% alcohol.
At a higher price point is Marques de Murrieta Capellania Blanco at $159 CAD for single varietal Macabeo. In addition to the fruity and nutty flavors that predominate, there is an undertone of spice in the wine from the oak aging process. This is a more robust wine with an alcohol level of approximately 14% and low residual sugar content.
Covides Real Imperial Brut Seleccion Cava is a lively Cava made with a bland of Macabeo and Xarel-lo grapes and is priced around $18 CAD. The grapes give the wine a light-yellow hue and the fruitiness of Macabeo sits alongside the citrus, melon, and baked apple of Xarel-lo in premium Cava. This is also lower alcohol at 12%.
– Gillian Marks, PhD. is a contributing editor with VineRoutes
