Sicily, an island blessed by the gods of sun, sea and, most importantly, soil, is a cradle for exceptional wines. And while Sicily has a long history of viticulture, it is the recent resurgence of its winemaking industry that has left wine enthusiasts enthralled.
Among the many wineries that have propelled this Sicilian/Italian wine renaissance, Tornatore shines brightly in the constellation of Etna’s vineyards, thanks to its history, its commitment to sustainability, and, of course, its stellar wines.
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Azienda Agricola Tornatore, nestled on the volcanic slopes of Sicily’s Mount Etna, boasts a rich and fascinating history. It was founded by the Tornatore family, who have been cultivating the land for generations, a tradition passed down through the years. The Tornatores’ love and respect for their vineyards, their “contrades” or single vineyard plots, and the land itself is deeply ingrained in the winery’s DNA.
The age of the current generation of vineyards on the 110-hectare estate varies from three to 40 years for the red grape varieties, and three to 10 years for the whites. Tornatore’s vineyards have recently been re-organized to improve quality standards – detailed re-mapping of the property has led to focused single vineyard wines and assemblage varietal bottlings – all in the hopes of telling the story of this extraordinary terroir with greater, more precise detail.
The contrades, each with its own unique terroir, offer a diverse range of microclimates, soils and grape varieties. They include the renowned contrades of Gaglioppo, Calderara, Pietrarizzo and Zottorinotto, all contributing to the intricate mosaic of flavours that define Etna wines. With the perfect blend of volcanic soils and high altitudes, these contrades make Tornatore’s wines something truly extraordinary.
Etna wines on the rise
Etna wines are experiencing a resurgence in popularity, earning their place as world-class wines. The newfound recognition is attributed to various factors, one of which is the unique terroir of the region. The volcanic soil, enriched by centuries of eruptions and lava flows, imparts distinctive mineral and earthy notes to the wines.
Moreover, Etna’s high-altitude vineyards experience dramatic temperature fluctuations, allowing the grapes to ripen slowly and develop complex flavours while retaining refreshing acidity. This balance between ripeness and acidity is a hallmark of Etna wines.
The winemaking techniques employed by Etna’s vintners also play a crucial role in the rise of these wines. A focus on tradition and minimal intervention allows the terroir to shine through, crafting wines that are both expressive of their origins and highly reflective of the volcanic landscape. Etna wines stand out for their elegance, finesse, and a unique combination of fruit, minerality, and floral notes.
Feeling the volcanic soils while touring the vineyards at Tornatore.
Tornatore is not just about producing exceptional wines but also about preserving the environment and the legacy of their land. Sustainability is a core principle, and the winery’s initiatives reflect this commitment.
The Tornatore family has invested in organic and biodynamic farming practices, minimizing the use of chemicals and synthetic fertilizers. The preservation of their vineyards and the surrounding ecosystem is a priority. They implement measures to reduce water consumption, promote biodiversity and maintain the natural balance of the vineyard.
Their sustainable practices extend to the winemaking process itself. Traditional methods, such as aging in large oak barrels, are employed to ensure that the wines maintain their terroir-driven characteristics. This focus on sustainability is not only an investment in the environment but also in the future of Etna’s winemaking legacy as a whole.
Each bottle represents a distinct terroir, as demonstrated on a map.
While visiting Tornatore during the summer, I was guided through what was so much more than a basic wine tasting experience. First, it was important to see the contrades, experience the elevation changes and feel the volcanic soils in my hands (we drove to an altitude of 690 metres above sea level, taking in the variations of terroir). One gains a true respect for the land when they’re standing right on it.
The tasting itself was contextualized. Each wine was identified on a map as to where it came from within the property – truly highlighting the perspective of one tasting a unique sense of place. The below wines are what was tasted during my visit and can be purchased in Canada through Nicholas Pearce Wines, many of which are either available now or will be available in the early new year:
Tornatore Valdemone
This aromatic sparkling wine, hailing from the Valdemone contrada, captivates with its bright, citrusy notes and hints of white flowers. The palate offers a crisp and refreshing experience with a mineral backbone that pays homage to its volcanic origins. ($31.95)
Tornatore Etna Rosato
A delightful rosato, this wine is a symphony of wild strawberries and red currants. With a refreshing acidity and a hint of minerality, it’s a perfect choice for sunny afternoons on the terrace. ($31.95)
Tornatore 2022 ‘Pietrarizzo’ Etna Bianco
From the Pietrarizzo contrada, this bianco is a delicate yet expressive wine. It teems with orchard fruit and citrus zest, leading to a vibrant, mineral finish that lingers on the palate. ($42.95)
Tornatore ‘Zottorinotto’ Etna Bianco
Zottorinotto offers a rich and textured white wine. You’ll discover notes of white peach, pear and honeyed aromas, all underpinned by an elegant minerality. It’s an intricate and captivating expression of Etna’s unique terroir. ($64.95)
Tornatore 2019 ‘Pietrarizzo’ Etna Rosso
This red wine from the Pietrarizzo contrada is an absolute gem. It greets the senses with red berries, wild herbs and a hint of smokiness. The palate unfolds with finesse, revealing ripe cherry, cranberry and subtle volcanic spice. ($42.95)
Tornatore ‘Calderara’ Etna Rosso
Calderara presents a poetic red wine with aromas of dark cherries, violets and a distinct earthiness. The palate is structured with supple tannins, offering a deep and enduring finish. ($106.95)
Tornatore 2017 ‘Trimarchisa’ Etna Rosso
From the Trimarchisa contrada, this Rosso is a harmonious blend of wild berries and subtle spice. The tannins are soft and inviting, making it a versatile choice to pair with a variety of dishes. ($67.95)
Tornatore 2016 ‘Riserva’ Etna Rosso
The Riserva is the crown jewel of Tornatore’s lineup. With a rich bouquet of black fruit, dried herbs and mineral nuances, it’s a wine that showcases the elegance and aging potential of Etna wines. Silky tannins carry the flavours to a long and memorable finish. ($116.95)
– Carmelo Giardina is the principal editor for VineRoutes
