As the weather heats up this summer, look to refreshing, low-alcohol, food friendly and affordable wines from Portugal’s Vinho Verde Region.
The northwest corner of Portugal is traditionally known as Entre-Douro-e-Minho. Meaning between the rivers of Minho, forming its northern border (with Spain) and Douro, its southern border. The area is rather rainy closer to the ocean coast and drier inland. It consists of verdant, rolling hills flanked by mountains to the east and the Atlantic Ocean to the west. Many vineyards are on terraced slopes. Officially recognized in 1908, the region received DOC status in 1984. It is the largest Portuguese demarcated wine region and one of the largest in Europe.
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There are nine sub-regions of Vinho Verde (Amarante, Ave, Baião, Basto, Cávado, Lima, Monção e Melgaço, Paiva, Sousa) each with unique micro-climates and predominantly granitic soils. These soils are not overly fertile and thus force vines to send their roots deep to probe for nourishment. Being deep rooted also makes vines more resistant to extreme heat and drought.
(Portugal’s wine region map courtesy of Wine Folly)
Pergola style traditional trellising is still found in smaller vineyards and on family farms. Here grapevines are draped high for air circulation so that cool breezes protect against fungal diseases as well as allowing space to plant vegetables underneath. But more modern trellising (Guyot + VSP) to accommodate mechanization where possible has become the norm for larger vineyard holdings.
Although Vinho Verde translates as “green wine” it could equally mean “young wine” as the wines are released within three to six months after harvest. Historically, Vinho Verde wines were bottled so quickly that some carbon dioxide from primary alcoholic fermentation was trapped inside the bottle, causing the wine to fizz upon opening. Consumers liked it! So now winemakers add a small amount of carbon dioxide to some wines at bottling to create a touch of spritz.
Not all Vinho Verde wines are young, light, and spritzy. Some are more structured, revealing weightier body, complexity, and aromatic intensity. They may be fermented in oak, aged on lees and have potential to age well in bottle for a decade. The region produces predominantly white wines (85%) but there are lighter reds and rosé wines that are also worth a look.
Most Vinho Verde wines are a blend of six white grapes, all native to Portugal: Alvarinho (the same grape as Spain’s Albariño, grown in Rías Baixas, just north of Portugal), Arinto, Avesso, Azal, Loureiro, and Trajadura. Typically these light bodied, refreshing wines show lemonade, white melon, gooseberry, grapefruit, and lime blossom aromas and flavours. They pair well with a variety of seafood, sushi, pork and potato dishes, breaded and fried foods, Thai and spicy dishes.
However, many winemakers are now producing single variety wines of superior quality, especially from Arinto, Alvarinho, Loureiro and Avesso, which offer more complexity and stand up to bottle ageing.
At a recent trade tasting in Toronto organized by a.m.c.c., we had the opportunity to taste wines from over a dozen Vinho Verde producers. Here are some of the wines that stood out:
Quinta de Santa Teresa Avesso 2022
This 100% Avesso wine is from the largest certified organic producer in Vinho Verde (sub-region Baião). The Gomez family farms 45 hectares divided among three estates – Casa do Arrabalde, Quinta dos Espinhosos and Quinta de Santa Teresa. The wine, a straw yellow colour, opens with aromas of linden flowers. On the palate the wine shows lively grapefruit, notes of quince and pear, with thyme and white pepper spice adding some complexity. This is a serious Vinho Verde wine with weight and a creamy texture, no doubt derived by way of its production – extended maceration, ambient yeast fermentation in stainless steel, and aged for one year on lees with bâtonnage. The wine was bottled unfiltered. (12.5% ABV, Organic, Vegan, $22.95 available at the LCBO)
Barão do Hospital Loureiro 2021
The Falua Group (originating in the Tejo region) acquired this estate only 5 years ago but its history dates back to the middle ages when hospitals welcomed and gave “hospitality” to travellers. This Loureiro (from sub-region of Monção and Melgaço) is fresh and vibrant. Blended with 15% Alvarihno, it is intensely aromatic, offering floral and citrus notes. On the palate the wine opens with lime, lemon pith, grapefruit and bayleaf. It is medium bodied with a lovely texture and long, tangy finish. Cold soaked and fermented at 16 degrees Celsius in stainless steel (to preserve the aromatic character), the wine was kept on fine lees until bottling. (12.5% ABV, soon to be a Vintages product, available now @northernwinemerchants.ca)
Casal Ventozela Espadeiro Rosé 2022
Espadeiro (also known as Padeiro) is a red grape variety producing light red and rosé wines meant to be consumed young. This rosé wine (from the sub-region of Ave) is delicate, fresh and fruity. A gentle shade of salmon, the wine offers up aromas and flavours of raspberries and wild strawberries. The refreshing acidity is balanced with a touch of residual sugar (9 g/L) but the wine finishes dry with a mineral note. A perfect wine to relax with on the patio or pack away for a summer picnic. (12.5% ABV)
450 Ardina Arinto 2020
Arinto (also called Pederna) is often referred to as Portugal’s finest white grape. At least winemaker Bruno Valente thinks so and expects his Arinto wines to age 7+ years. He explained that the label referred to the elevation of the vineyard where these grapes come from (sub-region of Baião). This wine is a pale lemon colour with floral and citrus aromas. On the palate it starts slightly effervescent but mellows into a round, soft texture. Juicy melon, citrus and stone-fruit flavours accompany lively acidity that is balanced by a touch of residual sugar (6 g/L). The wine finishes clean. Simply delicious. (12% ABV)
Quinta da Raza Alvarinho 2022
The popularity of Alvarihno has been on the rise and this example shows why. Awarded Best in Show Vinho Verde (Mundus Vini 2023), Gold Medal (Mundus Vini 2023), and 90 points Best Buy (Wine Enthusiast), this wine is pure joy. Fruity and floral aromas are revealed on the palate as pink grapefruit, lime, pear and a hint of blanched almond. Skin contact before pressing, fermentation in stainless steel, and ageing on lees for 4 months with bâtonnage has resulted in a round mouthfeel and a persistent finish. (13% ABV, $21.95 available at the LCBO)
Quinta da Raza Gouveio 2021
Bravo to this family owned estate (in the sub-region of Basto) for bringing back Gouveio (known as Godello in Spain) from obscurity. Winemaker Pedro Campos is still trying to figure out how to work with this grape but already sees good ageing potential to develop additional complexity, mouth feel and flavour. Awarded a Silver medal at the Concurso Vinhos de Portugal 2023, this wine has an intensely mineral note – crushed gravel – as wells an intriguing salinity. Grapefruit, lime, white peach and a hint of aniseed add interest to the palate. Fermented in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks, the wine is left to rest on lees for 4 months before bottling. (12.5% ABV)
Quinta d’Amares Alvarinho 2022
Hailing from the sub-region of Cávado, this is another delicious example of Alvarinho. It was chosen the best wine among 4,000 wines from 28 countries, winning the Diamond Trophy at the international competition SAKURA Japan Women’s Wine Awards 2023. Honeysuckle and tropical fruit aromas are intertwined with citrus notes. The palate is fresh with lemon zest, melon, nectarine and a hint of tangerine. Mid-palate, the wine shows a pleasant weight. It is a finely balanced wine with mouth-watering acidity leading to a long finish. (13% ABV)
Arca Nova Loureiro 2022
Loureiro is often referred to as the Riesling of Portugal as it can show notes of petrol/kerosene with age. But its trademark includes sea salt/salinity and bayleaf/herbal notes. Arca Nova Loureiro (100%) is a more fruity example with floral, mango and banana aromas. On the plate it is light bodied, crisp and slightly fizzy. Some residual sugar (8 g/L) was retained to balance the refreshing acidity. The finish shows a touch of mineral salinity. The wine was produced using a short skin maceration followed by low-temp fermentation (15- 20 days) in small stainless-steel tanks with bâtonnage. (11.5% ABV, Organic)
Lidija’s interest in wine began over 35 years ago when she founded a wine club, The Grape Friends, in order to learn more about wine regions, grape varieties, and food & wine pairing. After retiring from teaching, Lidija enrolled in the Winery and Viticulture Technician program at Niagara College to deepen her understanding of winemaking and grape growing, graduating in 2015. Since then she has earned a French Wine Scholar certification and has earned her WSET Diploma. Lidija blogs about wine and travel on her site www.divinevines.wordpress.com.
