Washington State, a region filled with diversity and contrasts, is increasingly emerging as a wine producer and destination to be reckoned with, producing both premium and fantastic value-for money wines as well as offering up a solid wine tourism destination program that is just as varied as its wines are.
With a history dating back to 1825, when the first grape vines were planted at Fort Vancouver on the banks of the Columbia River (by the then Great Britain owned Hudson’s Bay Company), Washington’s wine region is solidly anchored in its history while also looking towards the future with the 2022 launch of Sustainable WA, the first statewide certified sustainability program for Washington vineyards.
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As the United States’ second wine producing state in terms of size (California accounts for 84 percent of the United States’ total wine production, Washington for just over five percent and the remaining states produce less than 11 percent combined), Washington State has, admittedly, sometimes flown under the radar or been confused with the “other” Washington (D.C.) – a common misconception it seems, and one confirmed by many of the winemakers and growers that I spoke with during a recent press trip that was hosted by the Washington State Wine Commission and Washington State Wine – Canada.
A region of diversity
Sharing roughly the same 46˚N latitude as some of Europe’s top wine regions (putting it parallel to Bordeaux, Burgundy and Rhône in France and the Piedmont and Alto Adige regions in northern Italy), this region’s growing season sees up to 17 hours of sunlight per day. Add to that the cool nights that help maintain the natural acidity of the grapes and you have the recipe for a grape growing region characterized by the meeting of New World and Old World, of vibrant fruit character and clear structure.
Photo of the Columbia River courtesy of the Washington State Wine Commission.
Contrary to many regions, it is not defined by a single variety that shines as the State’s signature grape, but instead sees a tapestry of multiple grape varieties (80+) thrive in its varied and diverse regions (400+ growers with 60,000+ acres of wine grape acreage throughout 20 AVAs). The State counts over 1,050 wineries ranging from large-scale (Columbia Crest Winery, Ste-Michelle Wine Estates, Coventry Vale Winery, Goose Ridge Estates) to non-profit wineries (Vital Wines) and small, independent wineries producing under 5,000 cases of wine annually (which makes up 90 percent of the total wineries in the State).
The varied regions and climates allow many varieties to excel, from the five production frontrunners (cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, riesling, merlot, and syrah account for 80 percent of the state’s production each year) to the many other varieties produced in small numbers. And that diversity, and lack of one defining style or grape variety, may very well account for some of the region’s mystique – combined with the fact that most of the wine produced in Washington is sold and consumed locally with very little being exported out of state or internationally. One could say that it’s a good ‘problem’ to have – being so good at so many different things and having so many diverse options and identities.
A recurring theme during my visit was that Washington can’t be summarized by one variety. Although overly simplistic, we often tend to associate regions with a standout variety: Oregon with pinot noir, Napa Valley with cabernet sauvignon, the Finger Lakes with riesling, and so on, which solidifies a ‘marketing narrative’ for the consumer.
A Tale of (20) AVAs
Part of Washington’s diversity lays in its 20 AVAs (American Viticultural Areas) of which four are cross-border appellations with Oregon (Columbia Valley, Columbia Gorge, and Walla Walla Valley) or Idaho (Lewis-Clark Valley) as well as the appellations and sub-appellations within these designated wine grape-growing regions. Columbia Valley, established in 1984, encompasses close to all (99 percent) of Washington’s other grape growing regions while Yakima Valley, the state’s first federally recognized AVA established in 1983, includes four sub-appellations: Red Mountain, Snipes Mountain, Rattlesnake Hills, and Candy Mountain.
This diversity of AVAs, each one having a distinct combination of area, climate, soil, topography, elevation, and grapes planted and grown within them, is one of the reasons that such a large number of varieties succeed in Washington and why the resulting wines bear their own distinct aromas and flavours.
Diurnal Shifts, rain shadows, and the Missoula floods
Spend a bit of time speaking with Washington’s winemakers, producers and growers and you will rapidly acquaint yourself with the terms above.
The State has some of the most dramatic average daily temperature fluctuations (diurnal shifts) of any wine region in the world with long warm summer days supplying ripe fruit flavours and cooler nights that help lock in and maintain the natural acidity of the grapes.
The unique results of the ice age Missoula Floods. (Photo courtesy of the Washington State Wine Commission)
Two major mountain ranges, the Olympics and the Cascades, help protect the Columbia Valley from wet weather systems. This rain shadow effect means less rainfall and the need for irrigation, creating a warm and dry climate perfect for grape growing in the eastern part of the state.
An entire article could be written about Washington’s terroir and geology but in a nutshell: volcanic activity created the area’s unique basalt bedrock (dark volcanic rock) onto which colossal ice age floods (the Missoula Floods) left Missoula Flood deposits and slackwater sediments and contributed to the vineyards’ unique soils (referred to as loess and comprised of layers of silt, sand, and gravel with some areas also having layers of volcanic ash and pieces of granite).
80+ varieties
It’s worth repeating that Washington excels at many grape varieties and is not defined by one style or grape. Many of the wines produced here manage to walk the line between freshness, acidity and liveliness and lush fruit, presence, and a certain richness.
The beauty of Washington State’s Columbia Gorge AVA (Washington State Wine Commission).
It’s a region that is growing steadily too, with wine grape production totaling 240,000 tons in 2022 (WA 2022 Grape Production Report), a 34 percent increase from 2021. The two top varieties, cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay, showed significant increases from 2021 (32% and 54% respectively) as did pinot gris (70%) and sauvignon blanc (54%). Overall, red varieties increased by 23 percent while white varieties experienced a 50 percent increase, which can lead one to hope that more wines from Washington State will find their way to out of state markets.
Wandering through Washington State
Not only a wine destination, Washington State has also earned an enviable reputation for its laid-back, unpretentious, and friendly vibes, abundant outdoor sports and recreation options, scenic mountain vistas, charming towns and lively metropolitan areas, as well as an enviable food and art scene with many major annual events and festivals.
Photo courtesy of the Washington State Wine Commission.
Basing yourself in the Yakima Valley, Tri-Cities & Red Mountain, or Walla Walla Valley regions is a terrific way to explore different regions within Washington, sample the diverse wines that it has to offer, and to properly experience this beautiful state in all of its diversity.
If you’re based out of Seattle and time won’t allow you to venture across mountain ranges to explore multiple AVAs, Woodinville Wine Country is a unique place and where to head for a sampling of the full range of Washington State wines. Only 30 minutes from downtown Seattle, over 130 wineries from across the state and its 20 AVAs have tasting rooms here, spread over four ‘districts’ each with their own personalities.
In addition to the tasting rooms, you’ll find behind-the-scenes looks at wine production, a plethora of restaurants, food, drink, and shopping destinations, as well as craft breweries, cideries, and distilleries. Chateau Ste. Michelle, Washington’s oldest winery, is found here.
With an offering so diverse in terms of regions and wines, Washington State is firmly set to continue showing itself as a top-tier wine destination. Chances are it won’t remain under the radar for long.
Below are wines that highlight Washington State’s diversity and contrasts:
Palencia Wine Company 2019 El Viñador Syrah, Red Mountain
Victor Palencia, founder and winemaker at Palencia Wine Company, was born in Michoacán, Mexico and raised surrounded by vineyards in Prosser, WA. Here he brings us a warm, rich, deep, and intense syrah from the Red Mountain AVA with notes of black cherries and red currants on the nose and a palate where coffee, chocolate and a small hit of spice mingle. Round and textured with a lingering finish. Intense but not overbearing.
Hedges Family Estate 2018 La Haute Cuvée, Red Mountain
2018 was a great vintage and this 99.77% cabernet sauvignon, 0.23% petit verdot drinks beautifully now, but also has great cellaring potential. Linear, strong and robust, it has ripe fruit (raspberries and fig), spice (cinnamon, pepper), cocoa powder and a slip of vanilla on both the nose and palate and a long, smooth finish. Beautiful.
SMAK Wines 2021 Autumn Rosé, Columbia Valley
A woman-owned, rosé exclusive winery in Walla Walla, (owner Fiona Mak wanted to pay homage to her Chinese heritage, SMAK is a combination of the initial and last name of her Chinese name Sui Wah Mak) this über dry 100% syrah rosé is barrel fermented and has gone through malolactic fermentation giving it depth and complexity. Candied cherries and oranges, nuts, and ginger snaps on the nose mingle with slightly spicy cherry jam on the palate. Layered and with a medium finish.
Gramercy Cellars 2019 Forgotten Hills Syrah, Walla Walla
The story of Forgotten Hills is an interesting one (albeit too long to summarize here you can find it on the Gramercy Cellars website). This wine is a true reflection of that terroir: balancing old world syrah with stony acidity. Tons of red fruit, but also crunchy black pepper and charcuterie on the nose, circling back on the palate. Strawberries with a sprinkling of pepper on all levels. Elegant and round with beautiful complexity. A splurge, but worth it.
L’Ecole N° 41 2022 Semillon, Columbia Valley
From this third-generation, family-owned artisan winery located in a historic Frenchtown School comes this refreshing semillon (82% semillon, 18% sauvignon blanc). With a level of complexity from the semillon and the sauvignon blanc bringing a flinty, mineral edge, the nose has zippy fruit (tart apples, citrus and watermelon), with notes of peach and nectarine on the palate and a crisp, fresh finish. Balanced. Excellent price point.
Rôtie Cellars 2022 Northern White, Columbia Valley
Rôtie Cellars owner and winemaker Sean Boyd strives to make traditional Rhone Blends from Washington State fruit in his stunning Rôtie Rocks Estate (technically just over the state line in Oregon) and this 60% Roussanne, 40% Marsanne is just that: lean, balanced and complex with aromas of honey and white flowers and a layered finish of peaches and mandarin orange on the palate.
Tirriddis 2020 Stonemark Vineyard Blanc de Blanc, Rattlesnake Hills
Tirriddis – standing for Tirage, Riddle, Disgorge – is a sparkling wine project fueled by passion, youth and a solid business plan by Andrew Gerow, Gabriel Crowell, and Matthew Doutney, three graduates of Washington State University’s Viticulture & Enology program. From their single vineyard series and a block with cooler growing temperatures and higher winds, this 100% chardonnay has lively and balanced bubbles with light lemon and barely ripe pear on the nose and lemon meringue pie minus the sweetness on the palate. Ever so slightly savory and flinty and absolutely beautiful.
Sonder 2021 Field Blend, Columbia Valley
Riley Miller makes minimal intervention hand crafted wines that he likes to drink: bright, playful and juicy, and this counoise, cinsault, grenache, viognier and roussanne field blend is all of that (and delicious to boot). A co-ferment of red and white grapes it is an explosion of bright red fruit aromas and flavors, mingled with just the right balance of mouth-watering acidity. Fresh and bright.
JB Neufeld 2021 Two Blondes Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Yakima Valley
Husband and wife team Justin and Brooke (the J & B behind JB Neufeld) overdeliver here with a stellar 100% cabernet sauvignon (one that I circled, highlighted, and underscored in my original tasting notes). From Two Blondes Vineyard, a cooler site with higher elevation it has beautiful aromatics of lavender and cocoa powdered cherries – the latter coming back on the palate along with tart red cherries. Light bodied for a cabernet sauvignon, it is well balanced and has a silky, lingering finish.
Airfield Wines 2022 Sauvignon Blanc, Yakima Valley
This family owned and operated winery situated in the heart of the Yakima Valley has been growing sauvignon blanc for over 40 years, and it shows. Light-bodied and fresh, it has citrus (lemon and lime) juice and peel on the nose with a hint of flint. The palate is lean, crisp and fresh with subtle layers of tropical fruit and minerality.
A wine writer, content creator and magazine & publication contributor, Alana is certified in Wine (WSET Levels 2 & 3), Champagne (Comité interprofessionnel du vin de Champagne) and a Le Cordon Bleu trained food & wine writer. She has written for various publications (including Forbes and Natalie MacLean), wineries and agents. She has lived, written, worked, and sipped her way across five continents and is happiest with a glass of wine in hand at one of her favourite wine bars or at home (currently Montreal, Qc.). You can find her on Instagram @alanaloveswine.
