At a ‘One Night Only’ dinner hosted at the Toronto residence of Ireland’s Consul General, Senior Editor Tod Stewart explored how Glendalough Irish Whiskey could hold its own at the fine dining table
In deference to those who consider every day to be a “whisky day” (possibly you; very probably me), May 16th of each year denotes the “official” day when arms around the world lift drams to lips. Having determined that participating is a no-brainer, the dilemma becomes exactly which whisky to raise up.
The continuing snit between ‘We The North’ and our brethren to the south (“Can’t we all just get along?!”) pretty much eliminates whiskies from Kentucky and Tennessee (and, in fact, all US whiskies from California to Colorado to Chicago) simply due to the fact that that you can’t rustle much of it in most of Canada these days. If you’ve got a stash, flaunting it in public might not be all that wise of an idea.
Read Also: 3 whiskies that offer a Canadian sense of place
Scotch is an obvious choice due to its popularity and get-ability (affordability, however, might be a thing). Those from Japan? Maybe. Quality for sure, but ditto re: affordability. The amazing offerings coming out of our own domestic stills and barrels would be the patriotic choice, though some Canadian “high rye” numbers can have a spicy snap that might be a bit too much for more delicate palates. There is another option: whiskies that are available, affordable, and drinkable. However, if you go this route, World Whisky Day becomes World ‘Whiskey’ Day.
The modern revival of Irish Whiskey
The Irish and the Scots have been locked in a historical debate as to the origins (and spelling) of the “water of life” pretty much for forever. Really, though, who cares? It’s the flavour that ultimately matters. And Irish whiskies have become decidedly more flavourful as of late, thanks in large part to the new breed of Irish distillers who are striving to return the historically bold style that defined “old style” Emerald Isle drams.
Glendalough Irish Whiskey was the star of this particular dinner.
The Glendalough Pot Still Irish Whiskey definitely falls into that category, and celebrating its launch saw me at the dinner table of the Consul General of Ireland in Toronto sometime around St. Paddy’s Day. Not only was I treated to an opulent dinner courtesy of Chef Ciaran Deery, but I was also led through an informed and spirited tasting of a select range of Glendalough Irish Whiskies by Head Distiller Ciaran “Rowdy” Rooney.
Single pot still Irish whiskey, in Rooney’s words, are “the most Irish of Irish whiskies” with a “uniquely Irish style.” Essentially a pot still whiskey produced at a single distillery, what makes the style unique is the inclusion of at least 30 percent unmalted barley in the mash. Originally conceived as a way of avoiding the tax on malted barley imposed in 1785, the style became so popular that it remained a staple even after the tax was repealed in 1855. In fact, it was so popular a style that it became the world’s most popular whiskey in the 19th century.
There are a few more things that make this expression unique. “It’s finished in Wicklow‑grown Irish oak, responsibly felled from woods just 20 minutes from our distillery,” Rooney reports. “We work with local foresters to hand-select individual trees, which are then made into barrels specifically for our whiskey. Irish oak is rare and demanding to work with, but it brings a distinctive spice, structure, and sense of place.”
An Irish Whiskey dinner done right
Rich and honeyed on the nose, the whiskey offered whiffs of buckwheat, toasted grain, baking spice, dark plum, and cocoa powder that led to a rich, viscous palate and delivered a complex intermingling of toffee, baking spice, fruitcake/dried fruit, and toasted nuts.
The table is set for a fantastic feast at the Irish Consul General’s house in Toronto.
This was served alongside Chef Deery’s silky Potato & Leek Soup with Charred Leek served with fresh Irish Wheaten bread and whipped butter.
Pairing spirits with food can be (in my experience) an iffy proposition, but in this case, the creamy texture of the soup and its slightly earthy flavour got along nicely with the spicy, butterscotch-laced flavours of the whiskey.
Next up was a generously proportioned (to understate things) cut of Ontario Prime Rib Roast with traditional Irish champ, roasted goose fat potatoes and honey glazed root vegetables. The dish was matched with a delicious The Glendalough Shamrock–a cocktail containing a montage of Glendalough Double Barrel Irish Whiskey, green Chartreuse (the bartender was pretty coy about divulging where he got this, but I guess being in the house of a diplomat has its perks), simple syrup, lemon juice and verbena tea. The match proved two things: the first being that Irish whiskey can make for an excellent cocktail base; the second, that a well-crafted cocktail can accompany certain dishes as well as any wine.
Sticky Toffee Pudding was served for dessert.
The dessert–Sticky Toffee Pudding with Fresh Vanilla Bean Ice Cream–got along nicely with the Glendalough Single Malt Mizunara Cask Finish Whiskey. Aged for seven years in a combination of bourbon and Japanese oak (typically rare and expensive), the whiskey’s citrus, malty, Asian spices, sultana, and orange chocolate flavours wrapped themselves around the decadent final course like a warm Aran sweater (okay, I’m pushing the limits of analogy, but indulge me).
Dining in the home of a diplomat may not be an everyday thing for most of us, but there’s certainly enough Glendalough Irish Whiskey in the Canadian market to toast World Whisk(e)y Day…and any other day for that matter.
A dram nice glass
While quaffing whisky straight from the bottle frontier-style has a certain rugged appeal, a well-crafted glass typically adds a bit more enjoyment to the experience (not to mention a measure of civility).
Created by Glasvin, a Canadian company founded by Forbes 30 Under 30 honoree David Kong, the Whiskey Glass (Stemmed) provides an elegant an distinctly different type of whisky delivery tool.
Known for its ultra-light, handblown stemware made from lead-free crystal, the Glasvin Whiskey Glass (Stemmed–also available sans stem) is designed to enhance aroma, balance, and overall drinking experience–bringing a restaurant-level moment into everyday entertaining. A set of two will run you around $80.
– Tod Stewart is a senior editor with VineRoutes, and is a judge for the Canadian Artisan Spirit Competition
