The well decorated chief winemaker reflects on the legacy of an iconic brand and one of the world’s most celebrated wines as Penfolds marks the 75th anniversary of Grange
Few figures in the world of wine embody both tradition and innovation quite like Peter Gago. As Chief Winemaker of Penfolds and the fourth custodian of the legendary Penfolds Grange, Gago stands at the helm of one of Australia’s most influential wineries—guiding a portfolio that spans continents while safeguarding the legacy of one of the world’s most iconic wines.
Born in Newcastle-Upon-Tyne, England, Gago emigrated to Australia at the age of six with his family, settling in Melbourne. His path to winemaking was anything but predictable. After earning a Bachelor of Science (Education) from the University of Melbourne, he spent eight years teaching mathematics and science before what he describes as “the grip of the grape” pulled him toward wine. He relocated to Adelaide to study oenology at Roseworthy Agricultural College, graduating as Dux before joining Penfolds in 1989 as a sparkling winemaker.
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By 1993 he had moved into red wines, and in 2002 he succeeded John Duval as Chief Winemaker. Since then, Gago has become both the guardian of Penfolds’ heritage and one of the most visible ambassadors for Australian wine globally.
During a recent stop in Toronto, where he was on tour celebrating the 75th anniversary of Grange, I met with Gago over lunch at Black + Blue Steakhouse. We tasted through several wines from the Penfolds portfolio while discussing the philosophy that continues to shape one of the world’s most recognizable wine brands.
Wine enthusiasts around the globe know very well that Penfolds Grange is one of the world’s iconic wines.
While Penfolds enthusiasts often associate the house with its formidable shiraz-based expressions, the tasting began with something unexpected: the elegant Penfolds Bin 311 Chardonnay, sourced from cool-climate vineyards in Tasmania, Tumbarumba, Henty and the Adelaide Hills. The wine’s precision and freshness offered a reminder that Penfolds’ reach extends well beyond Shiraz alone.
Still, the heart of the lineup remained firmly rooted in the winery’s red portfolio. Wines such as the St Henri Shiraz, the Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz, the Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz and the Bin 138 Grenache Shiraz Mataro (GSM) demonstrated the enduring strength of Penfolds’ blending philosophy.
But inevitably, attention turned to the wine that has defined the estate for generations.
A legacy 75 years in the making
The 2021 vintage marks the 75th anniversary of Grange, first produced experimentally in 1951 by Penfolds’ legendary winemaker Max Schubert. Today it remains one of the world’s most celebrated wines and an officially recognized Heritage Icon of South Australia.
The Penfolds cellar.
For Gago, the milestone is both humbling and instructive.
“In its 75th anniversary year, the philosophy of the ‘Grange proposition’ remains unchanged, as does its stylistic template,” he explained. “What has changed is each year’s climatic input, and the diversity of the Grange blend’s grower and Penfolds vineyard sourcing.”
That consistency is no accident. After each harvest, Penfolds conducts its rigorous Classification tastings—a blind evaluation process designed to ensure the wine continues to meet the house’s signature style.
“Tasting blind keeps you honest,” Gago said. “No two Grange vintages are the same, yet they are all unmistakably Grange.”
Advancements in vineyard management, winemaking technology and access to high-quality oak—still exclusively American oak (Quercus alba)—have refined the process over time. Yet the core identity of the wine remains intact, particularly its legendary capacity to age for decades.
Penfolds chief winemaker Peter Gago at the spiritual home of Penfolds and Grange, Magill, South Australia.
In recent years Penfolds has expanded its reach far beyond Australia, launching winemaking initiatives in regions including Bordeaux, Napa Valley and China. Yet despite this global footprint, Gago insists the brand’s identity remains unmistakable.
“In each region during harvest we have a Penfolds winemaker on the ground,” he explained. “In France, Shauna Bastow. In California, Andrew Baldwin. In China, Reno Liu.”
While soils and climates differ dramatically, the approach remains consistent.
“Picking, fermenting and barrel maturation all occur through a Penfolds lens,” Gago said. “And the final blend—via our post-harvest classification tastings—ensures a global Penfolds input that maintains local style sensitivity.”
The result, he noted, is a shared DNA that allows regional expression while maintaining the structural hallmarks that define Penfolds wines.
Custodian and ambassador
Gago’s role today extends beyond the winery. As Chief Winemaker, he has become one of the most recognizable ambassadors for Australian wine worldwide.
“In 2026 Penfolds will enter its 182nd year,” he said. “Grange its 75th. St Henri its 138th.”
Penfolds.
Across those decades, Penfolds has continuously adapted while maintaining its stylistic core.
“Our collection includes single-vineyard wines that celebrate terroir, single-region wines that highlight regional character, and multi-regional blends that create benchmark synergy,” Gago explained. “And now our Wines of the World prioritize variety over continent. Choice.”
His perspective reflects a broader philosophy about the global wine landscape.
“Fine wine knows no borders,” he said. “Only soil, site and sensitivity.”
Tasting the 75th vintage
The highlight of the afternoon was, of course, the latest release: the 2021 Grange Shiraz.
Drawn from select vineyards in the Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale and Clare Valley, the wine represents the most powerful expression of Penfolds’ multi-vineyard blending philosophy.
On the palate, the wine unfolds with remarkable breadth and density. Layers of dark fruit, licorice and star anise mingle with hints of roasted plum, chocolate-toned oak and sleek, dusty tannins that promise decades of evolution in bottle. Menthol and herbal nuances hint at Clare Valley fruit, while savory notes evoke McLaren Vale’s maritime influence.
It is a wine that refuses to reveal everything at once.
As Gago noted with a smile, “Tomorrow, a different reveal.”
Indeed, the 2021 Grange is only beginning its journey—one that will likely stretch well beyond mid-century. Peak drinking: 2027–2060.
– Carmelo Giardina is the Principal Editor of VineRoutes
