Nestled in the picturesque landscapes of British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley, CheckMate Artisanal Winery has been making waves in the wine world with its commitment to excellence and a relentless pursuit of crafting exceptional, groundbreaking merlot and chardonnay wines.
CheckMate was established after owner Anthony von Mandl purchased an exceptional chardonnay vineyard on the Golden Mile Bench in 2012. Evidently, the winery has become one of the crown jewels in von Mandl’s portfolio of Okanagan wineries (others include Mission Hill Family Estate, Martin’s Lane Winery, CedarCreek Estate and Road 13 Vineyards.)
Read Also: Top Rated: An Okanagan riesling with texture, complexity and balance
In the ecologically pristine Okanagan Valley, glacial fed lakes stretch along a narrow valley floor at an altitude of more than 1,200 feet. As the world warms, cool regions such as the Okanagan provide a new frontier for world class chardonnay and merlot. A recently completed winery designed by architect Tom Kundig welcomes guests to taste year-round.
Winemaker Spencer Kelly.
Recently, the winery underwent a significant transition, welcoming winemaker Spencer Kelly to the helm, succeeding the esteemed Philip McGahan. As the vines embrace a new caretaker, the essence of CheckMate’s winemaking philosophy and dedication to quality remains unwavering.
In a recent conversation with Spencer, he shared insights into his journey, emphasizing the significance of his roots in the Okanagan Valley. “I was growing up in the Okanagan Valley around the time that the local wine industry was starting to gain momentum,” he says. “My interest in wine really grew when I was a student at UBC in Vancouver, where I was studying Food Science. My journey continued to the Similkameen Valley after completing my degree, working for small family producers.”
Spencer’s passion for winemaking led him to California, where he earned a degree specializing in Enology and Viticulture. However, the allure of his home region persisted. “I was most interested in making wines that aspire to be great, that reflect the place they are from and make people excited. CheckMate was the perfect place for me.”
Every winemaker brings a unique touch to their craft, and Spencer Kelly is no exception. His winemaking philosophy centres on the thoughtful cultivation of vineyards and the meticulous handling of fruit to preserve its distinctive character.
Notably, Spencer emphasizes the importance of spending ample time in the vineyards, regularly tasting the fruit and wines to fine-tune techniques. “We adjust accordingly so that we are enhancing the fruit and never masking it,” he asserts, highlighting the dedication to showcasing the pure expression of the terroir.
‘Attack’
Chardonnay: A tale of land and climate
For those in the know, CheckMate Winery has become synonymous with high-quality merlot and chardonnay. The merlots are unmistakably rich, flavourful and ageworthy. But it’s their portfolio of chardonnays that strike such a resonant chord when it comes to epitomizing elegance and precision; each bottle narrating a tale of the land and climate.
A springtime visit to the winery had me tasting the current lineup of wines (and even some notable back vintages just to see how things were coming along seven and eight years later). If there ever was a reason or a place to have to admit that it’s hard to choose just one, this is it. Each wine is so focused, so precise, they all deserve to be mentioned when speaking of truly great, memorable and collectable chardonnay.
‘Little Pawn’
Upon arrival at the winery, I was greeted by young man, named James, who immediately presented me with the 2019 ‘Attack’ Chardonnay – a two-vineyard blend that exudes finesse and complexity. With notes of ripe pear, citrus, and a subtle hint of oak, Attack captivates all the way through its lingering finish. An auspicious start. And I hadn’t even gotten through the front door yet.
Perhaps the most famous chardonnay from the CheckMate lineup is the ‘Little Pawn’, having earned 100-point scores ever since the 2016 vintage. The 2019 is a delicate, yet robust single vineyard expression. Fermented in barrel, the wine saw equal parts new and used oak, undergoing full malolactic fermentation followed by 16 months of barrel aging. Its well-balanced acidity harmonizes with flavours of green apple, peach and a touch of vanilla, creating a chardonnay with a soft and effortless tippy toe like mouthfeel.
‘Queen’s Advantage’
The 2020 ‘Queen’s Advantage’ exemplifies the regal stature of these chardonnays. From a vineyard planted in 1973, this wine represents the oldest chardonnay block in British Columbia. Boasting a captivating bouquet of tropical fruits, with pineapple and mango taking center stage, the palate is rich and fresh, leaving an indelible mark.
‘Queen Taken’ is making a case for crown jewel status within CheckMate’s chardonnay stable. The 2020 is a masterclass expression, from vines planted in 1975. With layers of stone fruit, toasted almonds and subtle minerality, this is a chardonnay that captures the essence of the Okanagan Valley in a single bottle. Fresh, soft and with a textured saline finish, it’s hard not to consider this to be the very best of the lot when tasting each wine side-by-side – that is, if I were forced to choose just one.
‘Queen Taken’
When asked about his vision for CheckMate’s chardonnay production, Spencer says “our plan is to continue refining, and always be looking for ways to improve how we work and produce wines we are excited to share with our supporters.”
Spencer is keen on showcasing exceptional places that produce beautiful grapes, emphasizing the uniqueness of each wine. “When the resulting wine is distinctive and delicious, we feel that justifies keeping it separate and sharing it with others,” he remarked, hinting at the possibility of future gems joining the CheckMate lineup.
It always helps when the winemaker is in complete sync with the place, the fruit, and ultimately, the wine. “I feel especially lucky to get to work with chardonnay. It is such a versatile and resilient grape variety and really showcases where it is grown.” He revealed, “It’s also my favourite wine to drink.”
The 2020 CheckMate ‘Queen Taken’ Chardonnay was awarded a score of 97 points and named most outstanding white wine of the year for 2023, as published in our VineRoutes Newsletter. To discover more exclusive newsletter-only wine scores, awarded by VineRoutes editors, sign up here.
– Carmelo Giardina is the principal editor of VineRoutes
