When a white wine stands out so distinctly in a blind tasting that it compels the entire VineRoutes tasting panel to circle back, you know it’s something special. And that’s precisely what happened with the 2023 Eden Valley Chardonnay from St. Hugo, a wine that was ultimately named VineRoutes’ Most Outstanding White Wine of the Year for 2024.
Crafted by winemaker Peter Munro (pictured above), this Eden Valley expression exemplifies a masterclass in cool-climate winemaking. It’s elegant, precise, and layered—showcasing the hallmark qualities that continue to elevate Australia’s white wine reputation globally. At around $40, it’s also a stunning value.
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St. Hugo has long been recognized for crafting fine, cellar-worthy wines with vibrancy and structure. The brand honours the legacy of Hugo Gramp—grandson of pioneer winemaker Johann Gramp—and is part of Australia’s winemaking heritage, with roots tracing back to 1847 in the Barossa Valley. Today, St. Hugo stands as a symbol of refined winemaking that celebrates both site and season.
That legacy is in strong hands under Peter Munro, who joined the winery in 2019. With over 20 years of experience across Australia, New Zealand and the United States, Munro brings a global perspective grounded in precision and site expression. His philosophy is rooted in expressing regional typicity and crafting wines that speak to their origin with authenticity and elegance.
A modern classic in the making
From the very first swirl, this wine captivates with aromas of juicy yellow peach, white flowers, toasted hazelnut, and a whiff of flint. That vibrant nose seamlessly transitions into a layered palate experience: ripe stone fruit intermingles with sweet baking spice and a beautifully integrated oak profile. A mineral-driven acid line provides a spine of freshness that carries the wine through a long, clean finish, accented by lingering hazelnut and a whisper of stone minerality.
There’s something undeniably refined about this chardonnay. It’s both powerful and graceful, with texture, structure, and balance working in harmony—a testament to Munro’s deft hand and the Eden Valley’s exceptional terroir.
The 2023 vintage was notably cooler with higher-than-average rainfall. As Munro explains, “Our Eden Valley vineyards are at a higher altitude, especially impacting nighttime temperatures, which helped maintain acidity. The increased rainfall allowed canopy protection without excessive disease pressure—a great white vintage overall.”
That natural brightness shines through in the wine, but it’s the winemaking detail that truly elevates it. With 60 percent whole bunch pressing, Munro strikes a precise balance between elegance and fruit intensity. “Whole bunch pressing brings elegance and highlights white peach notes,” he says. “Our crushed portions emphasize the yellow stone fruit spectrum. In 2023, 60 percent was the perfect balance.”
Fermentation occurred in both new and seasoned French oak, including 500L puncheons and a 3,000L French oak cask. The result? Subtlety and structure without overwhelming the fruit. “We always want the fruit to be at the fore, with oak playing a supporting role,” Munro notes.
Textural complexity is built through partial malolactic fermentation and regular bâtonnage during an eight-month maturation period. Importantly, each small parcel was treated individually. “Every two weeks, we taste all the parcels and assess them on their winemaking journey. That determines how much malolactic fermentation we allow and how much bâtonnage to apply,” Munro says. “It’s about understanding what role each parcel will play in the overall blend.”
St. Hugo Winery.
While this wine reflects St. Hugo’s house style—elegance, clarity, complexity—Munro believes the 2023 stands apart. “The purity and drive of the fruit is what sets this vintage apart. That intensity has allowed us, as winemakers, to build great complexity around it.”
It’s a wine that is a bold reminder of Eden Valley’s potential. “There is so much great chardonnay being made in Australia right now,” Munro says. “But Eden Valley offers a natural generosity, and when handled with nuance, it can produce wines of exceptional depth and complexity.”
St. Hugo’s 2023 Eden Valley Chardonnay is one of those wines. A benchmark for the region and a modern classic in the making.
The 2023 St. Hugo ‘Eden Valley’ Chardonnay was awarded Most Outstanding White Wine of the Year for 2024, as published in our VineRoutes Newsletter. To discover more exclusive newsletter-only wine ratings awarded by VineRoutes editors, sign up here.
– Carmelo Giardina is the principal editor of VineRoutes
