The Creator looked upon this land with special favour and reached down to bless it, leaving the imprint of His hands. (According to some… an Indigenous American story.)
Geology, albeit less charming than the story, bears witness to glaciers of the last ice age receding and gouging enormous depressions. They became not only the Finger Lakes, but also magnificent gorges and waterfalls that abound in this region of upstate New York.
Of course, there are more lakes than actual fingers on one’s hands. The lakes number eleven – Canadice, Canandaigua, Cayuga, Conesus, Hemlock, Honeoye, Keuka, Otisco, Owasco, Seneca and Skaneateles. They lie roughly within a triangle between Syracuse, Rochester and Elmira-Corning. The Finger Lakes Region as a whole is a treasure trove of interesting things to see and do from outdoor activities to unique museums and country fairs.
Read Also: Prince Edward County: Where to eat, drink and stay
A convenient base for exploring the Finger Lakes Region is Geneva (NY). It’s approximately a three and a half hour drive from Toronto (327 km) via the I-90 E highway. The historic and picturesque city of Geneva offers plenty of accommodation, an eclectic food scene, a castle, a great downtown vibe along Linden St. – which closes to traffic on weekend nights during the summer season – and proximity to numerous wineries.
A total of 11 lakes make up the Finger Lakes region in upstate New York.
Although many of the Finger Lakes boast wineries and vineyards cascading down steep hill slopes toward their shores, the major wine trails are found on Lakes Keuka, Seneca and Cayuga. Along the way, don’t forget to visit some of the local breweries, distilleries and cideries!
So what makes this region so perfect for viticulture? The lakes impart a moderating effect on vineyards, providing heating in winter and cooling in summer; the sloping land provides good airflow to keep fungal diseases at bay; the mineral rich soils and pockets of shale and limestone provide good drainage and result in crisp, mineral nuanced wines.
The following itinerary could comprise three to four days. While many Americans cross the border to enjoy Ontario’s wine regions, far fewer Canadians venture to New York’s Finger Lakes. But it’s definitely worth the trip.
Keuka Lake
Winery to visit
No visit to the Finger Lakes would be complete without a wine tasting at Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery. Dr. Frank was a pioneer and visionary; he planted the first vinifera vines in 1958 – riesling, chardonnay, and pinot noir – on the shale-based soils and steep slopes of Lake Keuka. That started the vinifera revolution that would change the course of winemaking in New York, which had until then depended on native varieties like Catawba and French-American hybrids like Vignoles.
A great way to experience a visit to this winery is the 1886 Food & Wine Experience – a pairing of four wines with locally sourced small plates plus a mystery wine served in a black wine glass for guests to guess!
Unique accommodation
Yurtin’ On Keuka Wine Trail is glamping on a whole new level! This all season yurt (air-conditioned in summer/heated in winter) sits on a completely private six-acre lot within walking distance to Keuka Lake and a short drive to Watkins Glen State Park. The yurt is open-concept, self-catering and sleeps four. Enjoy star-gazing through the dome while listening to the sounds of nature.
Dining option
On the picturesque Village Square of Hammondsport, The Village Tavern and Inn offers a variety of locally sourced, sustainable food options. Dog friendly patio seating is available.
Of interest to see
While in Hammonsport, visit the cradle of aviation – the Glen H. Curtiss Museum. You may not have heard of Glenn H. Curtiss, despite his being a motorcycle pioneer, daredevil, and “fastest man on earth,” or despite his eventually being called the Father of the American Aviation Industry and Father of Naval Aviation.
Seneca Lake
Winery to visit
The Seneca wine trail bristles with wineries, so there are many choices. But there is one that should not be missed. Ravines Wine Cellars is an internationally acclaimed winery whose wines have been included multiple times in The Top 100 Wines (Wine Spectator). Trained in France, winemaker/oenologist Morton Hallgren has been making wine in the Finger Lakes for decades, first as head winemaker for Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery in the mid 1990s, and then for Ravines (owned by him and his chef wife, Lisa).
The tasting room at Ravines Wine Cellars.
When asked how it is possible to make full-bodied red wines like the Ravines Cabernet Franc and Bordeaux styled red blend, Maximilien, in this cool climate wine region, Morten says it’s knowing your vineyard – the specific microclimate – and your grapes’ health and ripeness.
Ravines has two tasting rooms – the original at Keuka Lake (what used to be the owners’ residence) and the charming old barn at Seneca Lake where the production facilities are located.
Unique accommodation
Are you an animal lover? Try The Farm Sanctuary, nestled on 275-acres of green, rolling pastureland. This shelter is home to more than 500 rescued farm animals. It also offers self-catering Tiny Houses on the property. Another option is Plum Point Lodge – a lakefront hideaway offering 31 guest rooms, six glamping yurts, a restaurant, bar, lounge, pool, and a dedicated events building. Within Geneva itself, The William Smith Inn, a historic B&B operated by a lovely Canadian couple, James and Maureen Wallace, provides delicious breakfast with maple syrup and has the most comfortable beds.
Dining option
Sapalta Restaurant at Plum Point Lodge offers delicious farm-to-table cuisine with vegan and gluten-free options and a spectacular lake view.
Sapalta Restaurant in the Finger Lakes.
Of interest to see
Watkins Glen hiking trails are amazing and there are trails of different lengths and difficulty to choose from.
Cayuga Lake
Winery to visit
The newest Finger Lakes winery is Six Eighty Cellars, named for the altitude of its vineyard at 680 feet overlooking the longest of the Finger Lakes. The owners, Dave and Melissa Pittard (who also own Buttonwood Grove Winery) wanted to do something different. So they approached winemaker Ian Barry (with experience in Hudson Valley, Oregon and Washington State) who was pleased to let his creative juices flow. This winery offers Pét Nat, a pinot noir-gewürztraminer co-ferment, wines made in cement, sandstone and terra cotta vessels alongside traditional oak barrels and stainless steel tanks. Their motto is “expect the unexpected”… and it works!
Plum Point Lodge, in Seneca Lake, is a beautiful place to stay and relax at while visiting the Finger Lakes.
Unique accommodation
Cabins at Buttonwood Grove Winery are surrounded by vineyards and overlook Cayuga Lake. Ideal for those who like the idea of staying at a Bed & Breakfast, but also want a cottage vibe and privacy. Here you can sit back at your own fire pit, enjoy a glass of wine, and watch the sun set.
Dining option
At the south end of Cayuga Lake, in Ithaca (home of Cornell University), is the famous Moosewood Restaurant – home of vegetarian gastronomy that includes fish and seafood and bestselling cookbooks.
Of interest to see
At the north end of Cayuga Lake, in Seneca Falls, is the Women’s Rights National Historical Park. Comprised of the visitor center, historic homes (open seasonally), and the Wesleyan Chapel – they tell the story of the first Women’s Rights Convention, (held in Seneca Falls on July 19-20, 1848). It is a story of struggles for civil rights, human rights, and equality, global struggles that continue today.
Lidija’s interest in wine began over 35 years ago when she founded a wine club, The Grape Friends, in order to learn more about wine regions, grape varieties, and food & wine pairing. After retiring from teaching, Lidija enrolled in the Winery and Viticulture Technician program at Niagara College to deepen her understanding of winemaking and grape growing, graduating in 2015. Since then she has earned a French Wine Scholar certification and is currently a DipWSET candidate. Lidija blogs about wine and travel on her site www.divinevines.wordpress.com.
