Year in Review: 50 standout Canadian wines of ‘23

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Closson Chase 2022 ‘Estate Unoaked’ Chardonnay 

This single-vineyard, unoaked Chardonnay opens with tempting, vibrant aromas of mango, kiwi, starfruit, peach, and sea breeze. A silky palate with ripe, zingy acid and a fine mineral vein proves incredible structure from the pure, uncloaked fruit of the estate cru-like South Clos vineyard. A flavourful and refreshing long finish. – Leah Spooner

Closson Chase 2021 ‘South Clos’ Chardonnay

Coming from one of the most highly regarded producers in Prince Edward County, and one of the top vineyard sites, this single vineyard Chardonnay opens with a complex nose of ripe pineapple, buttercream, walnut, and nectarine. A rich and creamy palate with beautiful oak integration that coddles the pure fruit and mineral nuances provided by the unique terroir. Baked apple and baking spice notes endure on a persistent finish. Excellent! – Leah Spooner

Liquidity 2021 ‘Estate’ Viognier

Elevated by a beautiful mineral component, this viognier unfolds layers of complexity from mid-palate through the lingering finish. It undergoes a unique journey—initially brought up in stainless steel, then gracefully transferred to French oak for added weight. Finally, a concrete egg imparts a rounded texture, allowing the wine’s mineral flavour to authentically express itself. It’s a wine that marries finesse with structure, promising a delightful sensory experience. – Carmelo Giardina

Divergence 2021 Sauvignon Blanc

Inviting aromas of banana, guava, and melon. Round, and medium-bodied with a tempting, textural mouthfeel. Tropical fruit and light grassy notes stretch around every edge of the palate, wrapping a heartbeat of rip Niagara acidity that trails on a lengthy finish. – Leah Spooner

Burrowing Owl 2022 Rosé

A beautiful salmon hue beckons, while on the palate, strawberry flavours unfold with a delightful resemblance to strawberry shortcake. Crafted entirely from cabernet franc, this rosé is a refreshing essence of summer, offering a perfect balance of fruitiness and crispness, making it a delightful choice for those seeking a lively and flavourful experience. – Carmelo Giardina

Burrowing Owl 2022 Pinot Gris

This very fresh and textured pinot gris is an excellent expression of the varietal, offering up a sensory journey through its lively character. The salty finish adds an intriguing dimension. – Carmelo Giardina

Karlo Estates 2020 Gewurtztraminer

Beautiful and exuberant floral aromas – honeysuckle, lilies, and wildflowers. Melon, pineapple, and fresh apricot add complexity and anticipation for the flavour profile. Medium to full-bodied, with notes of melon, ripe apricot and fresh nectarine, with a gentle spice frame. The acidity is quite supportive, although faintly detectable amongst a harmonious balance of structure and taste. An excellent Gewurtztraminer! – Leah Spooner

Ravine Vineyard Brut Vintage 2011

Ravine Vineyard’s Brut Vintage 2011 Sparkling is a masterpiece from Niagara’s cool-climate terroir. Aged for a decade on lees, this simply enchants with refined bubbles and a complex bouquet of green apple, citrus, and toasted brioche. The palate is luxurious and sophisticated, complemented by flavours of almond, stoney minerality and a creamy texture that lingers with a nuanced finish. It’s the best Ontario-made sparkling wine I have ever tasted. – Carmelo Giardina

Inniskillin 2019 ‘Montague Vineyard’ Pinot Noir

This Pinot Noir showcases aromas of ripe cherry, molasses, and chocolate. Gentle tannins, and medium acidity. Concentrated red fruits – dried cranberry, and baked strawberry on the palate, along with sage and chocolate notes that develop on a lengthy finish. – LS

Redstone 2021 Dry Riesling

This riesling comes from the south block of Limestone Vineyard, one of the best Riesling sites on the Twenty Mile Bench sub-appellation. Incredibly summer fragrant aromas of grapefruit, lime, lilacs and cotton candy! Mineral driven, with slate notes and a chalky mouthfeel. The palate bursts with mandarin, lime, grapefruit, and the same ripe citric acidity. Beautifully structured and concludes with a notably long finish. Pure and refreshing. – LS

CedarCreek 2021 Aspect Collection Block 3 Riesling

A very balanced riesling, with lovely, complex aromatics that include orchard fruits, wax and some flint. Excellent flavours and texture here. Zesty citrus, green apple and minerality dance on the palate. There’s a saline, briny finish to it, which complements the wine’s crisp acidity and overall vibrancy. A standout example of what Okanagan riesling is capable of. – CG

CedarCreek 2022 Platinum Pinot Noir Rosé

Elegant and versatile, this has lovely and lifted aromas of strawberry, watermelon and an assortment of red berries and floral notes that literally burst from the glass. The palate is dry and offers refreshing acidity with a salty grapefruit accent. It’s elegant and versatile. – CG

Lighthall Vineyards 2019 ‘Culmination’ Nature Sparkling

This is a traditional method Blanc de Blanc made with 100 percent Prince Edward County chardonnay. Warm aromas of caramel, toffee, baked pear, and golden apple all follow through on the palate. Two years of lees aging lends to pleasant French pastry and almond notes, accompanied by telltale PEC mineral/chalky edges. Persistent finish. Cool climate chardonnay precision at its finest! – LS

North 42 Degrees 2019 Cabernet Franc Reserve

A revelation of a wine. Bursting with vibrant red fruit, this wine showcases the varietal’s character. It’s so fresh on the palate, with silky tannins and a touch of green pepper. Some evergreen contributes to a harmonious, lingering finish. – CG

Road 13 2022 Rosé

Enticing aromas of fresh strawberries, rhubarb, candied cherry, and flint. On the palate – ripe red berries and rhubarb that are restrained in an elegant dance between dried herbs and cool, river rock notes. Invigorating citric acid and mineral fierceness swoop in as a gentle, but firm tightening grip showcasing outstanding structure and complexities. – LS

Hidden Bench 2019 ‘Locust Lane Vineyard’ Pinot Noir

The Locust Lane vineyard site imparts its differences onto the Hidden Bench pinot noir portfolio by way of its soil composition, which is mostly clay (as opposed to the ‘Felseck Vineyard’, which is mostly limestone soil with a little clay). What we get here is a very lifted, aromatic pinot, with captivating aromas of violet, rose petal, drying herbs and ripening cherry. On the palate, firm tannins envelop flavours of dark berries, black tea and a touch of spice. An ideal candidate for some serious cellaring time (think 7-9 years). – CG

Hidden Bench 2020 ‘Felseck Vineyard’ Chardonnay

This chardonnay somehow encapsulated all the attributes of a hot vintage on the Beamsville Bench sub-appellation, while maintaining all there is to love about cool-climate chardonnay. Its silky, mineral driven palate is complex with a plethora of stone fruit and ripe citric flavours. Seamless and well-balanced with nutmeg, cinnamon and butter notes. Its opulence is experienced straight through the long finish. – LS

CheckMate 2019 ‘Opening Gambit’ Merlot

This is truly an exceptional merlot. Born from the warm embrace of the Border Vista vineyard, situated closest to the US border, it embodies the pinnacle of merlot craftsmanship. Richened flavours of plum, black fruit and spice echo its wonderful fragrance from the glass. It captivates with its depth and warmth, a testament to the unique terroir it hails from. – CG

Divergence 2021 ‘Wismer Wingfield’ Gamay Noir

An elegant, fresh and floral nose of roses, lilacs, and red licorice introduce this cru single vineyard Gamay. Light-bodied, with a punchy red fruit core that delivers red raspberry and fresh strawberries on a wave of exhilarating acidity. Balancing earthy and floral notions that taper towards to the edges of the palate and continue on a lingering finish. – LS

CREW 2017 Grand Crew

A 50/50 blend of merlot and cabernet sauvignon, this top tier wine from CREW captivates with its opulence and depth of flavour. In fact, there’s layers of black cherry, cassis and subtle oak that beautifully unfolds, leading to a brambly, field berry blend finish that’s velvety smooth. Just four barrels were produced, or about 100 cases. – CG

Hubbs Creek 2019 Pinot Noir

This is a lively, light-bodied pinot noir that contains a wild amount of complexity and intrigue. The nose is mushroom, forest, cranberry, and dried herbs. These notes are reflected on the palate with a wonderful County purity of red fruit – pomegranate, and raspberries. Concentrated, and charismatic, with an elegantly balanced structure of acidity and tannin. An earthy, black tea finish. This will be well worth holding for five to seven years. – LS

Martin’s Lane 2020 Naramata Ranch Vineyard Pinot Noir

Another expressive pinot from one of the more expressive vineyard sites in the region. The nose is so telling of its specific site. Such a floral nose, with crushed violet, rose petal and earthy minerality coming through. The palate has personality, with a river-rock minerality that flows through a silky palate with impeccable balance. Tannins are finely flattened. A sophisticated expression of Naramata’s terroir, to be certain. – CG

Martin’s Lane 2020 DeHart Vineyard Pinot Noir

Yet another standout pinot noir hailing from one of the Okanagan Valley’s premier producers of the variety, Martin’s Lane. Elegant and expressive, it reveals layers of red fruit and floral notes, and a hint of forest floor. It’s mouthfeel is soft, with finely grained tannins adding an element of texture. A skilled reflection of the Okanagan’s unique terroir. – CG

Rosehall Run 2020 ‘St. Cindy’ Pinot Noir

Cedar, roses, red cherry, raspberry, fennel and black pepper aromas introduce this complex and exciting single varietal wine. An awe-struck tasting journey begins with silky, smooth tannins that give a gentle squeeze, electric acidity that sparks all edges of the palate, and a textured, chalky mouthfeel. Raspberry coulis, sour cherry and black pepper morph in to cooked mushroom, tree bark, and black tea. The tasting begins on a bright red spectrum and ends on soft black notes, that include salty black olive on an extended finish. – LS

Rosehall Run 2020 ‘St. Cindy’ Chardonnay

Toasted almond, bosc pear, candied lemon, and mineral aromas. These notes are reflected on a creamy palate, with an underlaying base of river rock nuanced minerality, and juicy, ripe acid. Fantastic texture and structure. Toast and butterscotch add extra depth on a long, persistent finish. – LS

Cooper’s Hawk 2019 Cabernet Franc Reserve

Lovely dark fruit, plum and spice aromas. There’s strength to this well-structured wine, with bold, full flavours. Red berries and subtle spice dance on the palate, framed by velvety tannins. A testament to the winery’s commitment and potential. – CG

Cooper’s Hawk 2020 Meritage Reserve

This spent 12-14 months in French and American oak. It’s is a bold red blend showcasing dark fruit, clove spice and hints of cedar. It’s soft on the palate, but its robust tannins provide structure, while a touch of vanilla adds a layer of complexity. An impressive expression. – CG

Brokenstone 2018 Amour

A wildly interesting nose of blood orange, starfruit, passion fruit, honeysuckle, raspberry and a faint hint of black licorice. The palate delivers complex texture with delicate perlage. Concentrated, with nice depth and a chalky mouthfeel, yet remains fresh and lifted. Long finish. – LS

Dobbin Estate 2019 Chardonnay

Born from vines planted in 2012, this is a testament to meticulous craftsmanship under the skilled hands of Ann Sperling. The lively palate dances under the result of wild and full malolactic fermentation. Aged for 18 months in barrel and on lees, this chardonnay unfolds layers of complexity. Each sip is a journey through harmonious notes, a true embodiment of this recently established estate’s dedication to quality and character. – CG

Cloudsley Cellars 2020 ‘Foxcroft Vineyard’ Chardonnay

Crisp orchard fruit – bosc pear and baked apple aromas. A complex, but light texture of linear acidity and encompassing minerality. More depth discovered still with a slight savoury aspect attributed with button mushroom and earthy notes. Golden apple and sweet spice ring through on a persistent finish. – LS

Leaning Post 2019 ‘Wismer Foxcroft’ Riesling

A stellar expression of Niagara terroir here. At 12.5% ABV and 8.5 g/L of RS, this wine boasts a beautiful balance. Aged for nine months on lees in concrete tank, it reveals a remarkable mineral character, complemented by subtle notes of matchstick and beeswax. The exceptionally long finish attests to its depth and complexity, while the zingy acidity and rich, textured qualities showcase a riesling made in a ripe and vibrant style. A true standout with layers of flavour that linger on the palate. – CG

Leaning Post 2020 ‘Senchuk Vineyard’ Chardonnay

It’s love at first scent with the totally ensnaring aromas of cedar, gala apple, nectarine and caramel. Blooming with a chalky mineral mouthfeel. An elegant and harmonious structure. Lemon zest, ruby grapefruit and nutmeg sing all the way to a long, saline finish. – LS

CheckMate 2020 ‘Queen’s Advantage’ Chardonnay

This exemplifies the regal stature of the CheckMate chardonnay stable. From a vineyard planted in 1973, this wine represents the oldest chardonnay block in British Columbia. Boasting a captivating bouquet of tropical fruits, with pineapple and mango taking centre stage, the palate is rich and fresh, leaving an indelible mark. – CG

CheckMate 2019 ‘Little Pawn’ Chardonnay

Perhaps the most famous chardonnay from the CheckMate lineup is the ‘Little Pawn’, having earned 100-point scores ever since the 2016 vintage. The 2019 is a delicate, yet robust single vineyard expression. Fermented in barrel, the wine saw equal parts new and used oak, undergoing full malolactic fermentation followed by 16 months of barrel aging. Its well-balanced acidity harmonizes with flavours of green apple, peach and a touch of vanilla, creating a chardonnay with a soft and effortless tippy-toe-like mouthfeel. – CG

CheckMate 2020 ‘Queen Taken’ Chardonnay

‘Queen Taken’ is making a case for crown jewel status within CheckMate’s chardonnay stable. The 2020 is a masterclass expression, from vines planted in 1975. With layers of stone fruit, toasted almonds and subtle minerality, this is a chardonnay that captures the essence of the Okanagan Valley in a single bottle. Fresh, soft and with a textured saline finish, it’s hard not to consider this to be the very best of the lot when tasting this ultra-premium and ultra-impressive winery’s chardonnay portfolio side-by-side. – CG

Trail Estate 2022 Field of Dreams

A blend of Geisenheim, Gewurztraminer, and Chardonnay from estate vineyards. Orange peel, dill, and pineapple on the nose. Light-bodied and citric bursts of candied lemon, grapefruit and orange. Invigorating acidity, with a mineral element that corkscrews down the pipeline of the palate. Gentle fizz and a long finish. I could go on, but this is easily summed up as delicious, electric lemonade. – LS

Four Shadows 2022 Riesling Classic

This is Four Shadows flagship wine, and it’s clear to see why! It displays bountiful aromas that include peach, mango, kiwi and wildflowers. The palate off-dry, and gentle at only 9.9% abv. Bursting with ripe, fleshy tropical notes and balanced with zesty acidity. This riesling is a hard one to put down! – LS

Red Barn 2020 ‘Silent Partner’ Cabernet Franc

Red Barn’s 2020 ‘Silent Partner’ is a wine of freshness and purity. Aged exclusively in concrete, it embodies the winery’s commitment to a clean, unadulterated expression of the grape variety. As a new addition to the Anthony Von Mandl portfolio, Red Barn stands out with its unique approach—all wines, including this cabernet franc, are fermented and raised in concrete, forgoing the traditional use of oak. The result is a captivating and intriguing wine that showcases the untamed beauty of the grape. – CG

Hinterland 2018 ‘Les Etoiles’ Traditional Method

Cultivated from the unique Hillier Clay-Loam soils, this traditional method sparkling is made from estate Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Apple orchard, ripe pineapple, and pecan aromas follow through on a creamy, rich palate. Warming, ripe apple notes and a touch of baking spice delivered on chalky and leesy textural elements and refreshing acidity. Terrific depth, and a crisp, lengthy finish. – LS

Stanners Vineyard 2021 Pinot Noir

What makes this pinot noir such an exceptional standout is the fact that it came out of the tricky 2021 Ontario vintage – a growing season that winemaker Colin Stanners admits as having been a definite challenge. But this is expertly done. Bright red fruit, floral aromas, and a touch of spice harmonize beautifully. Crushed gravel, dark cherry and subtle earthiness over a bed of silky tannins, coupled with a lengthy finish make this wine memorable in an otherwise not so memorable year. – CG

Stanners Vineyard 2019 Chardonnay

A chardonnay that showcases finesse and pure focus. There’s layers of orchard fruit and a hint of toasted oak that creates a luxurious palate. A well-balanced acidity leads to a lingering, elegant finish. – CG

Bachelder 2020 ‘Wismer-Wingfield’ Chardonnay

On the nose: pecan, toffee, buttered toast, corn, and reductive notes. The palate is a sexy, creamy cocktail of signature Bench acid and mineral prominence. Cohesive and balanced. Apples, apples, apples…and ripe citrus. An impressive display of Niagara’s cool climate chardonnay. – LS

Westcott 2019 ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir

Incredibly perfumed aromas of violets, ripe and sour cherry, black earth, cinnamon and river rock. Electric acidity on a silky palate of fine-grained tannins, wet stone, cinnamon, fall leaves. Light-bodied, yet complex and wraps up with a deliciously long finish. – LS

Westcott Vineyards 2021 ‘Butlers Grant’ Chardonnay

This is a chardonnay that begins with inviting aromas of toffee, apple skin and lemon drop. An elegant and creamy mouthfeel, that between notes of apple, citrus, and dazzling minerality, lies admirable balance and poise. A hint of salinity on a long finish wraps up another exceptional expression of terroir from the Twenty Mile Bench sub-appellation. – LS

Mission Hill 2020 Perpetua Chardonnay

This is simply a chardonnay lover’s dream. Rich and opulent, it features layers of ripe orchard fruit and a subtle kiss of oak. Delicate, deft and restrained, with impeccable balance. I love the salinity to this. Its lingering finish defines this exceptional wine. – CG

Mission Hill 2022 Border Vista Vineyard Rosé

Made using 87% merlot, 8% syrah and 5% cabernet franc grapes, this is a celebration of freshness. Vibrant notes of strawberries, watermelon waft from the glass. The palate is fresh, vibrant and dry, with a saline mid-palate that’s complemented by lovely citrus notes. Elegant and quenching. – CG

Mission Hill 2018 Oculus

Made from the top 1% of the winery’s annual grape harvest, this iconic Bordeaux-style blend is further coaxed from the top portion of each of the best barrels – which extracts the cleanest wine, with no sediment. The wine exudes complexity, featuring dark fruit, cocoa and hints of cedar. Velvety tannins and impeccable structure underscore its cellar-worthy potential. Wonderfully approachable now in youth, but better in 5-8 years. – CG

Last House 2021 ‘Electrum’ Chardonnay

A chardonnay crafted with a 25-day skin maceration and using 20 percent whole cluster grapes. Complex and appealing aromas of orange peel, pineapple, turmeric and ginger that are all reflected on the palate. A full-bodied, energetic white with brisk acidity and a slight tannic grip on a persistent finish. This wine is loaded with intrigue and deliciousness! Incredibly food friendly. – LS

Adamo 2020 ‘Hockley Valley’ Chardonnay

Vibrant, floral aromatics with butter, baked pear and nectarine. A creamy palate that explodes with warm flavours of buttered popcorn, anjou pear and hazelnut that transition to ripe citrus and crisp apple in length. A delicate mineral mouthfeel is softly cleansed with bright acid that fans through an extensive and complex finish. – LS

Vivace Cavatina  

This wine is made of the hybrid grape Foch, fortified with Canadian spirits, and then sweetened with the juice of iced Foch! It’s then barrel aged for six years. Mouthwatering aromas of cherry, caramel, and pecan. The barreling plays a pivotal role on the palate, not overpowering, but cradling the sweet red fruit in savoury and smoky candied bacon notes. Rich, and balanced, with lively acidity, and additional nutty flavours on a long finish. What a cool wine! – LS