New York State of wine: 10 bottles that prove this region is on the rise

July 6, 2023

If you’ve ever been skeptical about the quality of wines made in New York State, I’m here to put that thought to rest. As Ontario’s neighbour to the south, you don’t have to travel far for a taste of inventive viticulture. Expect the unexpected. That’s the beauty of New York.

In fact, there are some very good wines being made throughout the empire state. From the Niagara Escarpment to the Finger Lakes to the North Fork of Long Island and beyond, it’s worth getting to know New York State wine.

Read Also: Exploring the Finger Lakes: A travel guide

As the third largest grape growing area in the United States, New York State is home to more than 450 wineries and 1,600 family-owned vineyards producing a variety of wines and styles. Perhaps it is most famous for its crisp and terroir-focused rieslings, many of which come out of the Finger Lakes region. But the state also produces noteworthy cabernet franc, merlot, chardonnay and refreshing rosé wines from its 11 American Viticultural Areas (or AVAs).

As the range and quality of New York wine continues to grow, trade and hospitality professionals are embracing the state as a premier American wine-producing region. Many top New York City wine lists and retail shops include bottles from several of New York’s wine regions, and New York wines are increasingly being distributed across North America.

At the Boldly New York trade tasting in Toronto. (Photo by Betty Loo Productions)

Earlier this year, I had the opportunity to taste many New York State wines while at a trade event in Toronto. While there, I learned more about the State’s wine industry and community and met several key players that are doing some excellent work.

Take a closer look at these standouts from that tasting, many of which are available at most wine shop locations:

Wölffer Estate 2022 ‘Summer in a Bottle’ Rosé

For over 35 years, Long Island’s Wölffer Estate Vineyard has been known as one of the finest producers on the East Coast and a centre for innovation and hospitality. Breezes from the Atlantic Ocean, located 2.6 miles from the estate, provide maritime conditions perfect for achieving the balance of ripeness and acidity that has come to define Wölffer’s signature style: food friendly, elegant wines, built for longevity. Five varieties are used for this absolutely scrumptious summer sipper. Extensive blending trials result in a complex and balanced rosé with loads of grapefruit, strawberry and watermelon fruit flavours that compliment the wine’s natural, vibrant acidity. ($34.95)

Forge Cellars 2020 ‘Wagner Caywood East’ Riesling

Since their first vintage in 2011, Forge has been on a mission to produce hand-crafted, terroir-driven, bone dry riesling. Focusing on the east side of Seneca Lake, within the Finger Lakes region, the winery works with several premier sites with considerable slope, and an abundance of different clones and soils. In addition to their own biointensively-farmed vineyard, they have long-term relationships with growers throughout the region. Case in point: they produce 13 different single vineyard rieslings! This one has gorgeous honeyed notes, with pear and some flint in support. The acidity is electric and really defines the wine’s appeal. ($44.95)

New York State Wines. (Photo by Betty Loo Productions)

Dr. Konstantin Frank 2021 Dry Riesling

In the 1950s Dr. Konstantin Frank ignited the “vinifera revolution”, a movement that forever changed the course of wine growing in the Finger Lakes and the eastern United States. Dr. Frank’s vision, knowledge, and determination are credited with elevating the New York wine industry to a level that today commands world attention. Four generations strong, the Frank family are leaders of grape growing and winemaking in New York State. This riesling is ripe and tropical, harmonizing freshly squeezed lime, citrus, cantaloupe, tangerine and petrol stoniness. It’s zingy fresh and ideal for long-term aging. ($29.95)

Ravines Cellars 2019 ‘Argetsinger Vineyard’ Dry Riesling

Ravines is exclusively dedicated to the production of high-quality estate grown wines from their own 130 acres of vineyards as well as working with the grapes from the renowned Argetsinger Vineyard. As perhaps the first enologist owned winery in the Finger Lakes region, Ravines has contributed to placing both Ravines and the Finger Lakes on the map. Elegant and pure, this offering is wonderfully expressive, mineral driven and immensely bright, with citrus, floral and flinty components. From old vines on steeply sloping limestone soil, this will have tremendous aging potential. ($49)

Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard 2020 ‘HJW Vineyard’ Riesling

Founded in 1979, Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard is a pioneer of viticulture and winemaking in the Finger Lakes. The estate spans 90-acres of prime vineyard sites on the western slopes of Seneca Lake and the wines are among the most acclaimed in the region. Estate fruit is hand-harvested and hand-sorted, and vineyard qualities are worked in small lots and then blended to create wines of balance and texture. Fermentations rely on indigenous yeasts to ensure each wine embodies the truest expression of site. Their commitment to place draws on forward-thinking techniques and respect for the past. From vines planted in 1976, the HJW Vineyard features Hermann’s original plantings on Seneca Lake. This is a leaner, more austere wine with intense flavour. ($62)

Lamoreaux Landing 2021 Unoaked Chardonnay

For over 30 years Lamoreaux has meticulously managed their vineyards by applying sustainable agricultural practices across 20 separate blocks of vines at their estate. This philosophy is continued in the cellar, as they use winemaking techniques that truly express the cool-climate, glacier-carved Finger Lakes region. This unoaked expression of chardonnay is fermented and aged exclusively in stainless steel. It’s fresh, vibrant, yet soft and graceful on the palate. ($24.95)

Element 2016 Cabernet Franc

Element Winery is a micro production winery founded in 2007 with a mission to create high quality, focused wines. With over 25 years of experience in the wine and hospitality industry, Master Sommelier and restaurateur, Christopher Bates is pushing the limits of expectations and expanding the definition of what is possible in the Finger Lakes. Working with grapes from different soils, sites, and growers, Element aims to create world-class wines that are wholly representative of the extreme climate and terroir. Aged slowly in 500 and 600 litre puncheons for nearly 24 months, this quality cab franc was softened, without oak extraction. Look for it to develop over the next 20-30 years. ($68)

New York State Wines. (Photo by Betty Loo Productions)

Living Roots Wine & Co. 2020 Cabernet Franc

Living Roots is a winery in both the Finger Lakes (Seneca Lake) region of Upstate New York and the Adelaide Hills region of South Australia. This is an elegant style cab franc with fresh acidity, vibrant fruit and subtle oak. Interesting that this was made using whole berry carbonic maceration ferment for a couple of weeks, then crushed for bright red fruits balanced with soft tannins and peppery spice. ($54.95)

Boundary Breaks 2021 Cabernet Franc

Located on the east side of Seneca Lake in the Finger Lakes, Boundary Breaks employs vineyard techniques that seek to achieve small berry size which yields sufficient colour and structure, while exhibiting lots of fruit in the finished wine. These specific vineyard practices enable the winery’s team to produce uncommonly ripe fruit in a cool climate, which yields structured, full-bodied wine like this cabernet franc. Aromas of red fruit and red licorice yield to green, fresh flavours of pepper, spice and blackberries. Very appealing. ($31)

Mazza Chautauqua Cellars 2018 Lemberger

Situated within the Lake Erie AVA, this third winery location from the Mazza family opened in 2005 and represented the realization of a long-standing goal to expand into New York. Establishing a home base in New York provided a foundation for the Mazza family to create long-lasting partnerships with a network of well-respected local farmers and to craft a unique new collection of wines rooted in the Mazza family’s traditional Italian winemaking heritage and strongly influenced by their international winemaking team. This blend of experience, approach, and perspective can be tasted in this bottle of Lemberger – a medium-bodied red. It has aromas and flavours of strawberry jam, ripe plum and blackberry finished with a hint of earthiness and firm tannins. The wine is fermented on skins and aged 19 months in French and Hungarian Oak. ($19.99)

– Carmelo Giardina is the principal editor at VineRoutes