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Better Earth, better wine – embracing a sustainable future

April 22, 2021

This feature was initially published on Earth Day in 2020, but has since been updated. 

With the rapid increase in climate-related news, a new mega-trend is hitting home with people and gaining considerable momentum. Customers are becoming more environmentally conscious, wanting sustainable products from sustainable companies. This includes everything from labour practices to the environmental impact of their production.

We’ve read the labels: ‘all natural’, ‘fair trade’, ‘organic’. An ever growing number of products include these claims of sustainability. But what do all these claims mean? Describing a product as “sustainable” could mean that it’s sourced responsibly or that it utilizes recyclable packaging – as well as a whole host of other potential attributes.

Using the wine industry as an example, understanding the how and why when it comes to sustainable grape growing, and more specifically, winemaking is critical to understanding how, when and why consumers prioritize sustainable options. It’s great to think that the vineyard your wine originated from was utilizing sustainable practices, but what does that look like for a vineyard?

Read Also: Niagara’s ‘biodynamic’ duo: Saving the planet one bottle of wine at a time

Sustainable wineries are focused on minimizing the effect their winemaking process has on the environment. They prioritize conservation, preservation, social responsibility and economic feasibility.

Portugal’s Symington Family Estates has set out to lead the way in terms of sustainability practice and is perhaps the most forward thinking winery in the world today. Located within the historic Douro Valley region, the Symingtons were awarded Ethical Company of the Year in December 2019 and joined companies as diverse as Patagonia and Kickstarter in becoming a ‘B Corporation’. The prestigious B Corp certification cements a large number of varied social and ecological projects that the Symingtons have put in place recently and are continuing to pursue.

Symington Family Estates - sustainable winery

The Quinta do Bomfim house, located in the Douro Valley, is just one of the properties owned by the Symington Family Estates.

In fact, the Symingtons are stepping it up a notch with the creation of the Symington Impact Fund – a one million euro pledge to support projects in the Douro. The primary use of the funds will be for community well-being and health, environmental protection and conservation and cultural heritage and education.

Rupert Symington, CEO of Symington Family Estates, has stated that “we have always sought to run our family business in a way that benefits people – be they our employees or the wider community. We are also committed to protecting the beautiful natural environments where we produce our wines. The Symington Impact Fund is a way of formalising this commitment and ensuring we support projects which are most aligned with our values and where we can have the maximum positive impact.”

Another family owned winery that’s leading California’s sustainability effort is Sonoma County’s Rodney Strong Vineyards. In 2010, the winery was officially certified as a sustainable operation. They’ve become completely carbon neutral, installed solar power and earned a Fish Friendly Farming certification among several other sustainable designations, including air quality, soil and water conservation and wildlife protection.

Rodney Strong - Sustainable winery

The Rodney Strong Vineyards Estate in Sonoma.

Ontario’s sustainability impact is also prevalent. One Niagara based winery leading by example is Hidden Bench Estate Winery, a certified sustainable winery which utilizes geothermal energy to provide cooling and heating for both their building and winemaking processes. Also one of the launch customers for Bullfrog Power – Ontario’s first green electricity company – Hidden Bench’s foregoing initiatives as an organic and biodynamic winery, as well as their ongoing approach to sustainability, has permitted them to be recognized as an environmental leader in the community.

Hidden Bench Estate Winery - Sustainable Winery

The iconic old barn on the Hidden Bench Estate Vineyard property in Beamsville, Ontario.

Choosing to embrace new energy technologies presents a triple bottom-line win in productivity, profits and planet, so it would seem that becoming sustainable is a worthy investment that many more will and should take. After all, consumers vote with their purchases. And so as we come to terms with the fact that our environment is increasingly being compromised, it becomes very important that every aspect of what consumers are now buying into is studied to ensure that businesses leave the environment in the very best shape possible at the end of the day.

The question we all need to ask ourselves now is: are we all on board?

Consider sustainable when you choose your wine, such as these options below from the three named producers listed above:

Prats & Symington 2016 Chryseia

Chryseia is the flagship offering made with the finest grapes from Prats & Symington’s own Douro Valley vineyards, Quinta de Roriz and Quinta da Perdiz. 2016 was a very hot and dry summer but was bookended with a wet spring and wet fall. This weather pattern was decisive in achieving balanced vine maturations. What we get here is a rich and chewy, powerful wine, with notes of plum, blackcurrant, mocha and some dark chocolate. The barrel play is expertly integrated. A tremendous bottle that shows great ageing potential. Definitely one for cellar collectors and best consumed 2023 through 2030. ($105)



Rodney Strong 2016 Estate Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

Rodney Strong Vineyards have gone acre by acre through their estate properties to ensure they’re taking every step possible to safeguard their region’s ecosystem. They’re solar energy system is one of the largest of any winery in the world and were officially the first to offset their carbon footprint in Sonoma. They produce one of my favourite pinots to come out of California and it is an excellent value. Medium bodied with complex notes of baking spice, vanilla and some yummy cran-cherry jam-like flavours. 2016 was a more balanced vintage for California and this is a great expression of that balance. ($29.95)




Hidden Bench 2017 Estate Chardonnay

Situated within the Beamsville Bench, Hidden Bench is an artisanal, terroir-focused winery dedicated to crafting premium wines solely from their own certified organic estate vineyards. They’ve established an ongoing reputation for consistent excellence both domestically and internationally, producing wines of pronounced complexity and character which bear a sense of place and time. This estate chardonnay is a quintessential example of how meticulously maintained vines can lead to an outstanding result. Bright, fresh and lively textured, this is drinking beautifully now. ($29.95)



Prats & Symington 2017 Post Scriptum de Chryseia

Post Scriptum is a partner wine to Chryseia, drawn from the same vineyards. Its profile is similar, with expressive, fresh and concentrated fruit married to exquisite balance and elegance. There’s supple texture here with rich dark fruit at its core and some spice on the finish. Despite being a lighter oaked wine – and therefore ready to drink sooner than its more collectible and cellar-worthy partner – this is still considered a young wine and can surely benefit from a few more years of age. The 14% alcohol will certainly remind you that a good decant is necessary if you do decide you can’t wait. ($40)



Rodney Strong 2016 Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon  

This is a richly structured cab with dark cherry, cassis, plum and spice notes. The palate has lingering spicy oak flavors with a plush finish. The 2016 vintage was an excellent one for California wines – especially the heartier, Bordeaux-type varietals. Definitely stock up on this particular vintage. It’s the type of wine that doesn’t break the bank and will please any wine-drinking crowd. An excellent companion to most barbecue fair. ($27.95)




Hidden BenchHidden Bench 2017 ‘Estate’ Riesling

This is 100 percent organically certified and estate grown riesling from the winery’s Locust Lane, Felseck and Rosomel vineyards – sites with plantings that range from late 1970s through to late 2000s – which lends to this being quite a complex wine. The nose has beautiful peach
and floral notes. The palate is bright with apple and pear, minerality and balanced acidity. It’s wonderfully textured with a lovely finish. Drink or hold mid-term. ($24.95)

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