With a legacy of quality and a commitment to sustainability, Ornellaia continues to capture the world’s palate
When speaking of fine Italian wine, few names carry as much weight as Ornellaia. Known for producing some of the most revered and highly sought-after wines in the world, the brand has firmly established itself as an iconic representation of Italian excellence. Synonymous with elegance, craftsmanship, and innovation, the Ornellaia estate, in Tuscany, is one of Italy’s most prestigious wine producers, full stop.
Earlier this year, I attended a tasting of the 2021 Ornellaia during a lunch in Toronto. Alongside the 2021 vintage, I felt privileged to taste two older bottlings, the 2012 and 2006, offering a rare glimpse into the wine’s evolution and exceptional aging potential. This experience was a profound reminder of why Ornellaia stands among the elite in the world of wine.
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Located in the picturesque region of Bolgheri, on the Tuscan coast, Ornellaia’s vineyard is set amidst rolling hills and a maritime climate that provides the ideal conditions for crafting world-class wines. Established in 1981 by Marchese Lodovico Antinori, the Ornellaia estate was a bold venture aimed at producing Bordeaux-style blends in a region better known for traditional sangiovese wines. The estate’s unique location, with its mix of clay, limestone, and sandy soils, combined with its proximity to the Tyrrhenian Sea, creates a terroir that allows for the cultivation of Bordeaux varieties like cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and cabernet franc with such noteworthy finesse.
Despite its relative infancy, the 2021 vintage already exhibites remarkable depth, with notes of dark fruit, cassis, tobacco, and a touch of Mediterranean herbs.
The vineyard spans 115 hectares, and the meticulous care taken in both the vineyard and the winery ensures that each bottle produced reflects the essence of its terroir. Sustainability plays a critical role in Ornellaia’s approach, with a commitment to organic viticulture, biodiversity, and minimal intervention in both the vineyard and cellar. Their sustainability initiatives (more on that below) are deeply rooted in preserving the health of the land for future generations while maintaining the integrity of their wines.
Although the history of the Ornellaia estate is relatively short in comparison to many centuries-old Italian wineries, it has quickly risen to a place of prestige. Founded as a rebellious departure from traditional Tuscan winemaking, the estate’s first vintage in 1985 signaled a shift in the perception of what Italian wines could achieve. Marchese Antinori’s vision was to create a Bordeaux-inspired wine that could stand toe-to-toe with the greatest wines of France, and the result was nothing short of spectacular. From the very beginning, Ornellaia garnered international attention, becoming part of the “Super Tuscan” movement that redefined Italian winemaking.
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Winemakers have come and gone, including the influential and seemingly irreplaceable Axel Heinz – who departed as Ornellaia and Masseto director in spring of 2023 – but the wine itself remains true to its roots, expressing the unmistakable identity of the estate. The consistency in quality has been driven by a team of winemakers who have upheld the brand’s commitment to excellence. This continuity has helped maintain Ornellaia’s status as a benchmark for fine wine.
Tasting Ornellaia
What truly sets Ornellaia apart is the complexity and elegance found in every bottle. Ornellaia’s flagship wine, simply named Ornellaia, is a Bordeaux-style blend that often incorporates cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, and petit verdot. Each variety plays its part, creating a wine that is layered, balanced, and deeply expressive.
During the tasting in Toronto, the 2021 Ornellaia stood out for its potential. Despite its relative infancy, the wine already exhibited remarkable depth, with notes of dark fruit, cassis, tobacco, and a touch of Mediterranean herbs – making it a perfect pairing with the garlic and rosemary roasted lamb shoulder that was served for lunch. The palate was rich, yet structured, with firm tannins that will undoubtedly soften and integrate with time. It’s a wine that promises to deliver so much more over the next few decades.
In contrast, the 2012 vintage, which had a decade of aging under its belt, revealed the beauty of Ornellaia’s aging potential. The tannins had softened, and the fruit had mellowed into a blend of dried plums, leather, and earthy undertones.
The 2006 vintage was perhaps the most striking, showcasing the true lengths of what Ornellaia can achieve. Now nearly two decades old, it had developed a haunting complexity, with aromas of truffle, cedar, and dried herbs complementing the rich, dried fruit and spice on the palate. The wine’s structure remained intact, with a lingering finish that seemed to echo the estate’s history and craftsmanship.
Sustainability and the importance of Ornellaia
One of the defining characteristics of Ornellaia today is its commitment to sustainability. The estate has embraced environmentally responsible practices that reflect the growing global demand for wines made with respect for nature. Ornellaia’s sustainability initiatives are multi-faceted, encompassing everything from organic vineyard management to water conservation and energy efficiency.
The estate has made significant strides in biodiversity, planting trees and shrubs around the vineyard to create natural habitats for wildlife. Cover crops are used to promote soil health, and natural pest management techniques have replaced synthetic chemicals. In the cellar, energy-efficient technologies are employed to reduce the estate’s carbon footprint. These efforts are not only about preserving the land but also about ensuring that the wines continue to express the purity of their terroir for generations to come.
Onellaia’s sustainable vineyards.
Holding a special place in the pantheon of Italian wines, and not only for its exceptional quality but also for what it represents, Ornellaia has found its place at the table alongside other super Tuscans like Sassicaia and Tignanello. The brand helped to redefine Italian wine on the world stage, demonstrating that Italy was capable of producing wines that could rival the great estates of Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Napa Valley.
In doing so, Ornellaia challenged traditional notions of Italian winemaking, where indigenous varieties like sangiovese and nebbiolo had long been the focus. By embracing international varieties and blending them with the nuances of the Bolgheri terroir, Ornellaia created something entirely new – a wine that is distinctly Italian yet internationally appealing.
The success of Ornellaia has also had a broader impact on the Bolgheri region, which has now become one of Italy’s most prestigious wine-producing areas. The estate’s reputation has drawn attention to the region, inspiring other producers to follow suit, further elevating the quality of this small region’s wines.
As we look to the future, the question of where Ornellaia will go next is an exciting one. With its strong foundation in both tradition and innovation, the estate is well-positioned to continue as one of the world’s most iconic wines. The 2021 vintage, with its youthful promise and bold character, hints at great things to come, sitting comfortably within past vintages, continuing the estate’s legacy of producing wines that age with grace and power.
The journey from a fledgling estate in Bolgheri to a global icon is a testament to the power of vision, dedication, and a deep connection to the land. The wines, with their elegance, complexity, and future potential, are a true reflection of the estate’s unique terroir and winemaking consistency, offering an experience that continues to captivate wine lovers around the world, including this writer.
